Bodega Bistro – Defining authenticity
The laminated page has Goi Cuon next to Fritures de Calmars, Bo Luc Lac between Rossini style Tournedos and Agneau. Funny interlingual names like “Ap Chow Bo” and “Ap Chow Hai San” precede English descriptions of stir fries. Don’t bother google “ap chow”. Such innovative term doesn’t exist outside the menu of Bodega Bistro. Just like the dialogues between Jim and Huckleberry Finn, names like these can’t be understood unless you speak it out loud in your head. Ap chow is áp chảo, “press against the pan”, a Vietnamese way of saying pan fry. Why did the chef phonetically transform it into Chinese, while keeping Goi Cuon and Bo Luc Lac true to their original spellings? I don’t know, but I got a chuckle out of it.
The menu alone, however, didn’t strike me as anything unusual. This wasn’t the first time I had to decode a strange name for a familiar dish. Vietnamese menus tend to have such mix between trying to keep the Vietnamese name and (mis)translating it into some other language. The unusual thing was that our thought-to-be-Vietnamese waiter didn’t understand me when I said the dishes’ names in Vietnamese. Then I noticed Chinese songs blasting shuo shuo in the background. And Chinese conversations between the waiters. And, shame on Vietnamese restaurants, very good service.
More on the service part later. But I have a small grudge against Chinese restaurants dishing out Vietnamese food. It’s probably rooted in the powerless distress at the rice-paper-wrapped-and-fried spring roll confused with the Chinese egg roll, or the names of vegetables, fish, and New Year festival with the word “Chinese” attached to it, as if China were the whole Asia. Not that it’s the Chinese’s fault. To my mind, the Chinese have enough dishes of their own, they don’t need to adopt our recipes and innocently serve them without reference. Likewise, I feel slightly vexed by orange chicken and sweet-and-sour pork on Vietnamese menus, things that just mean to attract the safe eaters.
So as soon as I realized Bodega Bistro has a Chinese chef and Chinese staff, I sighed with disappointment. My expectation dropped. My appetite wilted. I didn’t come here for orange chicken and sweet-and-sour pork. Then I remembered that wasn’t what we ordered and just how wrong I was for doubting the place’s authenticity and sincerity. Chinese chef Jimmie Kwok of Bodega did specify that this is Vietnamese food, as he did his best to keep the original spellings, with the exception of “ap chow“.
In fact, he kept more than just the spellings. He kept the flavor, the presentation, and the ingredients. Nem cua is wrapped in rice paper, stuffed with real crab meat, wood ear mushroom, and cellophane noodle (NOT cabbage, thank goodness), served with bún (thin rice vermicelli), rau sống (lettuce and mints), and a gargantuan bowl of nước chấm.
There are floating chili pepper seeds and garlic slices, strings of pickled daikon and carrots, subtle sugar and a squeeze of lemon to temper fish extract’s saltiness, and ginger to counter seafood. The clear sienna dipping liquid elevates the crispy crab rolls and coats the bland vermicelli in flavors. Rice vermicelli and nuoc cham trump pasta aglio e olio, if I may brag.
Just after we slurped clean the last twirl of noodles and sauce and erased all crispy crab rolls’ existence, a staff member came and politely replaced our plates with new ones for the second dish. (Yes, the very nice service I mentioned earlier.) It’s also nice that somehow the staff knew we were sharing and didn’t swarm the table with everything at once. The meat arrived when we were half full and wholly satisfied. Bo luc lac, commonly appear as “shaken beef”, sometimes “beef luk lak” (!), is like philly cheese steak, it simply can’t go wrong. But it can be underseasoned. I’m not sure if this is a difference between Northern and Southern recipes, or if the chef intentionally makes it edible without rice, but Bodega’s bo luc lac is more bland than Lemon Grass‘s bo luc lac. It’s soaked in a light salty wine-and-mushroom-like sauce, served with lemon juice, and it lacks the sweet-and-savory signature of Southern cooking. That aside, the tenderness is superb, and the onion bits melt like candies.
So just what makes authenticity? Is it the name? The ingredients? The cook’s experience? Certainly not the cook’s ethnicity. We came to Bodega looking forward to a Hanoi meal, and we left, looking forward to coming back.
Address: Bodega Bistro
607 Larkin Street
San Francisco, CA
(415) 921-1218
(a few blocks away from Herbst Theatre)
Dinner for two (including tax): $32.75
Some really superb blog posts on this site, thanks for contribution. “Gratitude is merely the secret hope of further favors.” by La Rochefoucauld.
1Today, I went to the beach front with my kids. I found a sea shell and gave it to my 4 year old daughter and said “You can hear the ocean if you put this to your ear.” She placed the shell to her ear and screamed. There was a hermit crab inside and it pinched her ear. She never wants to go back! LoL I know this is completely off topic but I had to tell someone!
2Perfectly pent subject material, appreciate it for information. “You can do very little with faith, but you can do nothing without it.” by Samuel Butler.
3You have mentioned very interesting points! ps decent website .
4I precisely desired to appreciate you once more. I am not sure the things that I would’ve tried in the absence of the entire ways discussed by you about such a theme. It was before an absolute frightening situation in my opinion, nevertheless being able to view your well-written way you dealt with that made me to weep over happiness. I’m just happy for this advice and as well , wish you really know what a powerful job you are carrying out instructing men and women via your websites. I’m certain you haven’t come across any of us.
5I believe this internet site has got some rattling fantastic information for everyone :D. “Calamity is the test of integrity.” by Samuel Richardson.
6Thank you for the good writeup. It in fact was a amusement account it. Look advanced to more added agreeable from you! However, how could we communicate?
7I have learn some excellent stuff here. Certainly worth bookmarking for revisiting. I surprise how much effort you set to make this sort of excellent informative site.
8Hey! This is my first comment here so I just wanted to give a quick shout out and tell you I truly enjoy reading through your blog posts. Can you suggest any other blogs/websites/forums that go over the same topics? Thank you so much!
9I like the efforts you have put in this, thankyou for all the great posts.
10Hello there, I found your web site via Google while looking for a related topic, your web site came up, it looks good. I’ve bookmarked it in my google bookmarks.
11I have to voice my respect for your kindness in support of those people who absolutely need help with the field. Your special dedication to getting the solution up and down became certainly invaluable and have truly permitted girls like me to achieve their goals. Your personal warm and helpful guideline denotes a great deal to me and far more to my fellow workers. Regards; from everyone of us.
12Good write-up, I am normal visitor of one’s blog, maintain up the nice operate, and It is going to be a regular visitor for a long time.
13Hello! I just would like to give a huge thumbs up for the great info you have here on this post. I will be coming back to your blog for more soon.
14Greetings from Los angeles! I’m bored to tears at work so I decided to browse your site on my iphone during lunch break. I love the info you present here and can’t wait to take a look when I get home. I’m shocked at how quick your blog loaded on my phone .. I’m not even using WIFI, just 3G .. Anyhow, amazing blog!
15I consider something genuinely interesting about your web blog so I saved to favorites.
16What’s Taking place i’m new to this, I stumbled upon this I have found It absolutely useful and it has helped me out loads. I hope to give a contribution & assist different users like its aided me. Good job.
17There is noticeably a bundle to identify about this. I believe you made certain nice points in features also.
18I’ve read a few good stuff here. Definitely worth bookmarking for revisiting. I surprise how much effort you put to make such a wonderful informative site.
19Magnificent goods from you, man. I’ve understand your stuff previous to and you are just extremely excellent. I actually like what you’ve acquired here, certainly like what you’re saying and the way in which you say it. You make it entertaining and you still care for to keep it smart. I cant wait to read much more from you. This is actually a tremendous website.
20Thank you, I have recently been searching for info about this topic for a while and yours is the greatest I’ve found out so far. However, what in regards to the bottom line? Are you positive about the supply?
21F*ckin’ tremendous things here. I am very happy to peer your article. Thank you a lot and i am looking forward to touch you. Will you please drop me a mail?
22I found your weblog website on google and verify just a few of your early posts. Proceed to maintain up the superb operate. I just further up your RSS feed to my MSN Information Reader. Searching for ahead to studying extra from you afterward!…
23Yay google is my world beater assisted me to find this outstanding website ! .
24Pretty nice post. I just stumbled upon your blog and wanted to say that I have truly enjoyed surfing around your blog posts. In any case I’ll be subscribing for your feed and I’m hoping you write again soon!
25You made some good points there. I looked on the internet for the subject matter and found most individuals will go along with with your site.
26I’m not sure where you’re getting your information, but good topic. I needs to spend some time learning more or understanding more. Thanks for excellent info I was looking for this info for my mission.
27Lovely website! I am loving it!! Will come back again. I am bookmarking your feeds also
28After study a few of the blog posts on your website now, and I truly like your way of blogging. I bookmarked it to my bookmark website list and will be checking back soon. Pls check out my web site as well and let me know what you think.
29Can I just say what a relief to find someone who actually knows what theyre talking about on the internet. You definitely know how to bring an issue to light and make it important. More people need to read this and understand this side of the story. I cant believe youre not more popular because you definitely have the gift.
30Those are yours alright! . We at least need to get these people stealing images to start blogging! They probably just did a image search and grabbed them. They look good though!
31Hello! I just would like to give a huge thumbs up for the great info you have here on this post. I will be coming back to your blog for more soon.
32Thanks for helping out, wonderful info .
33You can certainly see your enthusiasm in the work you write. The world hopes for even more passionate writers like you who aren’t afraid to say how they believe. Always go after your heart.
34I would like to thnkx for the efforts you have put in writing this blog. I am hoping the same high-grade blog post from you in the upcoming as well. In fact your creative writing abilities has inspired me to get my own blog now. Really the blogging is spreading its wings quickly. Your write up is a good example of it.
35Thank you for sharing superb informations. Your website is very cool. I am impressed by the details that you have on this web site. It reveals how nicely you understand this subject. Bookmarked this website page, will come back for more articles. You, my pal, ROCK! I found simply the information I already searched all over the place and just could not come across. What a perfect web site.
36Hi , I do believe this is an excellent blog. I stumbled upon it on Yahoo , i will come back once again. Money and freedom is the best way to change, may you be rich and help other people.
37Pretty! This was a really wonderful post. Thank you for your provided information.
38Excellent beat ! I would like to apprentice even as you amend your website, how can i subscribe for a blog website? The account helped me a applicable deal. I were a little bit acquainted of this your broadcast provided vivid transparent idea
39Would you be excited by exchanging links?
40I genuinely enjoy looking through on this site, it has got wonderful blog posts. “A short saying oft contains much wisdom.” by Sophocles.
41Hello, Neat post. There is a problem together with your site in web explorer, might check this… IE still is the market chief and a large section of people will omit your magnificent writing because of this problem.
42Real excellent information can be found on weblog.
43I wanted to thank you for this great read!! I definitely enjoying every little bit of it I have you bookmarked to check out new stuff you post…
44I conceive this website has some very superb info for everyone :D. “The test of every religious, political, or educational system is the man that it forms.” by Henri Frdric Amiel.
45I have read a few good stuff here. Definitely worth bookmarking for revisiting. I wonder how much effort you put to make such a magnificent informative site.
46I think other website proprietors should take this website as an model, very clean and excellent user genial style and design, as well as the content. You are an expert in this topic!
47Some truly terrific work on behalf of the owner of this web site, dead outstanding content.
48Thank you, I have just been looking for info approximately this topic for a long time and yours is the best I have found out till now. However, what in regards to the conclusion? Are you certain in regards to the source?
49I definitely wanted to construct a small remark to express gratitude to you for some of the stunning ideas you are giving out on this website. My time-consuming internet investigation has at the end of the day been recognized with awesome suggestions to exchange with my best friends. I would suppose that many of us readers are truly lucky to dwell in a fabulous site with very many wonderful professionals with very beneficial strategies. I feel very blessed to have seen the web page and look forward to many more cool times reading here. Thanks a lot again for everything.
50