At the Mountain Top (Sahn Maru)
Nothing beats mom’s cooking. Things may come close, or they may be enchantingly as good as mom’s cooking albeit in some different way, but nothing can top a familiar taste that you grew up with, when you’re fed with love. Remember how Ego dropped his pen and dived into Remy’s ratatouille dish upon recalling the aromatic smell of his mother’s boiling pot? In episode 5 of Gourmet, tears of joy wet the eyes of a renowned food critic as he savored a bowl of boodae jjigae (부대 찌개), the kind his mother used to make for all poor children in the village and the taste he has longed for in several decades. The concept is universal: mom’s cooking is the best. Lately I’ve been steering away from Vietnamese restaurants, not because they aren’t good, but because my mom makes better. So I seek out to the food my mom has never made, yet a part in me still wants a sense of home. And what’s more home-like than the thin, ruffled floral cotton cushion pads loosely tied to some wooden chairs?
Korean food always makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside. I’m not talking about the chili heat and the bubbling sizzling dolsot and the oksusu cha (옥수수 차), even if that’s part of the reason. If you take off the tongue-torching taste, Korean food is actually very similar to some Northern Vietnamese food, especially the soups and the stir fries. Neither cuisines go down the slippery slope of lard overdose or drown the plates in curry sauces and coconut milk, and both embrace a sweet-savory harmony topping a lot of rice.
But above all, it’s the feel of a Korean restaurant that charms me. It always feels slow. Even if it’s like OB Chicken Town, where the lone waiter has to rush between tables, love songs blast all around, basketball players run across the big TV screen, time still goes by slowly at that wooden table where you’re sitting. Time swirls around in the tea cup. Time lingers like the steam above your dark stone bowl. Time precipitates in each little morsel of banchan that you get served a few minutes after placing your order. Maybe it feels slow because you don’t have to rush shoving food into your mouth, or clearing the table so that the later course can come. It feels slow just like eating at home, when each dinner would take hours because I talked to my mom instead of eating.
So I feel happy at every Korean restaurant I’ve been to, with every Korean dish I’ve tried. I feel happy at Sahn Maru (산 마루) in Oakland. This chulpan bulgogi (출판 불고기) is another pleasant find. I like my choice of mild sauce because the lack of chili paste lets other flavors flourish, but you can choose spicy. The ddeokbokki (떡볶기) is a playful texture that could be done without, while the cellophane noodle buried under a mountain of beef and soaked in marinade is just too great.
On the hot side we have bubbling soondubu jjigae (순도부 찌개). The soft tofu is creamy like scrambled eggs. Pour a few spoons on top of rice, mix it up. You won’t notice the meat, and the meat is totally dispensable. This stew is good because of the fish sauce, the heat, and the creamy tofu.
At the end, the bill gets served with a cup of cold sujeonggwa (수정과). I’m not a fan of cinnamon, but anything sweet and cold just cleanses the throat so nicely. There was no dried persimmon, though.
And I would have said that Sahn Maru was another pleasant experience. But something among the banchan (반찬) makes me change my mind.
The dried anchovies. I’ve had the other things before, odeng bokkeum (오뎅볶음 fried fish cake), buchu jeon (부추전 chive pancake), kimchis, nokdumuk (녹두묵 mungbean jelly), but this is the first time I have myulchi bokkeum (멸치 볶음), stir fried dried anchovies with heads intact. Whatever little flesh the fish used to have has crystallized into tiny perfections of salty sweetness. The fish taste like candied orange peel. I just can’t get enough of it.
Because of the anchovies, Sahn Maru is not just another pleasant experience. Sahn Maru is a place I will visit and revisit, even if it costs a notch above all other Korean diners I’ve come to like.
Those little fish provoke memories of my mom’s ca kho tieu.
See more pictures of Sahn Maru’s dishes at my web album Photon Flavors.
Address: Sahn Maru Korean BBQ
4315 Telegraph Avenue
Oakland, CA 94609
(510) 653-3366
Dining dollars: chulpan bulgogi ($20.95) + soft tofu soup ($11.95) + tax = $36.10
UPDATE: We have also tried a variety of other dishes here, from the usual dolsot bibimbap, japchae, seafood pancake and kalbi tang to the less-known bibimnaengmyun (비빔 냉면, cold buckwheat noodle), joki gui (조기 구이, fried king fish), and duehji kamjajim (돼지 감자찜, braised pork in mild chili sauce with dates and sweet potato). So far, all of them are the best of their kind. 🙂
Thanks for the sensible critique. Me & my neighbor were just preparing to do some research about this. We got a grab a book from our local library but I think I learned more clear from this post. I’m very glad to see such magnificent information being shared freely out there.
1Wow, amazing blog layout! How long have you been blogging for? you made blogging look easy. The overall look of your web site is wonderful, as well as the content!
2Your style is so unique compared to many other people. Thank you for publishing when you have the opportunity,Guess I will just make this bookmarked.
3Great website. A lot of useful information here. I am sending it to a few friends ans also sharing in delicious. And certainly, thanks for your sweat!
4I really appreciate this post. I have been looking all over for this! Thank goodness I found it on Bing. You have made my day! Thanks again
5You should take part in a contest for one of the best blogs on the web. I will recommend this site!
6Wonderful beat ! I wish to apprentice while you amend your site, how could i subscribe for a blog site? The account helped me a acceptable deal. I had been tiny bit acquainted of this your broadcast provided bright clear concept
7There may be noticeably a bundle to know about this. I assume you made certain nice factors in features also.
8I am glad for commenting to make you understand what a fantastic experience my wife’s princess enjoyed browsing your webblog. She even learned a good number of issues, most notably what it is like to have a great giving spirit to make the mediocre ones just completely grasp several extremely tough subject areas. You actually surpassed our desires. Thanks for presenting such important, safe, revealing as well as easy thoughts on your topic to Mary.
9I want examining and I conceive this website got some truly utilitarian stuff on it! .
10I’ll right away grab your rss feed as I can’t find your e-mail subscription link or newsletter service. Do you have any? Kindly let me know in order that I could subscribe. Thanks.
11Nice post. I learn something more challenging on different blogs everyday. It will always be stimulating to read content from other writers and practice a little something from their store. I’d prefer to use some with the content on my blog whether you don’t mind. Natually I’ll give you a link on your web blog. Thanks for sharing.
12Some genuinely nice and utilitarian information on this site, likewise I believe the design holds good features.
13I see something genuinely interesting about your weblog so I saved to my bookmarks.
14I was curious if you ever considered changing the structure of your site? Its very well written; I love what youve got to say. But maybe you could a little more in the way of content so people could connect with it better. Youve got an awful lot of text for only having one or two pictures. Maybe you could space it out better?
15There is noticeably a bundle to know about this. I assume you made certain good factors in options also.
16Fantastic beat ! I would like to apprentice even as you amend your site, how can i subscribe for a weblog site? The account aided me a acceptable deal. I have been a little bit acquainted of this your broadcast offered shiny clear idea
17Interesting blog! Is your theme custom made or did you download it from somewhere? A design like yours with a few simple adjustements would really make my blog stand out. Please let me know where you got your theme. Thanks
18I like this website so much, saved to my bookmarks.
19I’m still learning from you, but I’m making my way to the top as well. I certainly enjoy reading all that is posted on your blog.Keep the posts coming. I liked it!
20Greetings! I know this is kinda off topic however I’d figured I’d ask. Would you be interested in trading links or maybe guest writing a blog article or vice-versa? My blog addresses a lot of the same topics as yours and I feel we could greatly benefit from each other. If you might be interested feel free to send me an e-mail. I look forward to hearing from you! Superb blog by the way!
21Hi there are using WordPress for your blog platform? I’m new to the blog world but I’m trying to get started and set up my own. Do you need any html coding expertise to make your own blog? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
22WONDERFUL Post.thanks for share..extra wait .. …
23I enjoy the efforts you have put in this, thanks for all the great blog posts.
24Hmm is anyone else encountering problems with the images on this blog loading? I’m trying to determine if its a problem on my end or if it’s the blog. Any responses would be greatly appreciated.
25Hello my friend! I want to say that this post is amazing, nice written and include approximately all significant infos. I would like to see more posts like this.
26You should take part in a contest for one of the best blogs on the web. I will recommend this site!
27I am usually to blogging and i really admire your content. The article has really peaks my interest. I am going to bookmark your website and maintain checking for brand spanking new information.
28I love it when people come together and share opinions, great blog, keep it up.
29I like what you guys tend to be up too. This sort of clever work and reporting! Keep up the wonderful works guys I’ve incorporated you guys to my blogroll.
30Good day! Would you mind if I share your blog with my zynga group? There’s a lot of folks that I think would really enjoy your content. Please let me know. Cheers
31F*ckin’ remarkable things here. I am very glad to see your post. Thanks a lot and i’m looking forward to contact you. Will you please drop me a e-mail?
32Do you have a spam issue on this site; I also am a blogger, and I was wondering your situation; many of us have developed some nice practices and we are looking to swap strategies with other folks, please shoot me an email if interested.
33This really answered my problem, thank you!
34Great blog! Is your theme custom made or did you download it from somewhere? A design like yours with a few simple tweeks would really make my blog stand out. Please let me know where you got your theme. Thank you
35I like this post, enjoyed this one thank you for posting. “What is a thousand years Time is short for one who thinks, endless for one who yearns.” by Alain.
36My brother recommended I might like this web site. He used to be entirely right. This put up truly made my day. You can not imagine simply how a lot time I had spent for this information! Thank you!
37You can certainly see your skills within the work you write. The world hopes for more passionate writers such as you who aren’t afraid to say how they believe. At all times follow your heart.
38Hey very cool site!! Man .. Excellent .. Amazing .. I will bookmark your web site and take the feeds also…I am happy to find numerous useful information here in the post, we need develop more techniques in this regard, thanks for sharing. . . . . .
39I’m still learning from you, but I’m improving myself. I absolutely liked reading everything that is written on your site.Keep the posts coming. I liked it!
40Hey there! Do you know if they make any plugins to protect against hackers? I’m kinda paranoid about losing everything I’ve worked hard on. Any recommendations?
41Incredible! This blog looks just like my old one! It’s on a completely different topic but it has pretty much the same page layout and design. Wonderful choice of colors!
42We are a gaggle of volunteers and opening a brand new scheme in our community. Your web site provided us with useful information to paintings on. You’ve done an impressive job and our whole group will be thankful to you.
43Once I originally commented I clicked the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and now every time a comment is added I get four emails with the identical comment. Is there any manner you’ll be able to remove me from that service? Thanks!
44My programmer is trying to persuade me to move to .net from PHP. I have always disliked the idea because of the expenses. But he’s tryiong none the less. I’ve been using Movable-type on a variety of websites for about a year and am concerned about switching to another platform. I have heard fantastic things about blogengine.net. Is there a way I can transfer all my wordpress posts into it? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
45I loved as much as you will receive carried out right here. The sketch is tasteful, your authored subject matter stylish. nonetheless, you command get bought an nervousness over that you wish be delivering the following. unwell unquestionably come more formerly again as exactly the same nearly a lot often inside case you shield this hike.
46Hi there, You’ve performed a fantastic job. I’ll certainly digg it and individually suggest to my friends. I’m sure they’ll be benefited from this web site.
47Wow! This can be one particular of the most helpful blogs We have ever arrive across on this subject. Basically Excellent. I’m also a specialist in this topic so I can understand your hard work.
48Your style is so unique compared to many other people. Thank you for publishing when you have the opportunity,Guess I will just make this bookmarked.
49Very informative and superb structure of subject material, now that’s user friendly (:.
50