At the Mountain Top (Sahn Maru)
Nothing beats mom’s cooking. Things may come close, or they may be enchantingly as good as mom’s cooking albeit in some different way, but nothing can top a familiar taste that you grew up with, when you’re fed with love. Remember how Ego dropped his pen and dived into Remy’s ratatouille dish upon recalling the aromatic smell of his mother’s boiling pot? In episode 5 of Gourmet, tears of joy wet the eyes of a renowned food critic as he savored a bowl of boodae jjigae (부대 찌개), the kind his mother used to make for all poor children in the village and the taste he has longed for in several decades. The concept is universal: mom’s cooking is the best. Lately I’ve been steering away from Vietnamese restaurants, not because they aren’t good, but because my mom makes better. So I seek out to the food my mom has never made, yet a part in me still wants a sense of home. And what’s more home-like than the thin, ruffled floral cotton cushion pads loosely tied to some wooden chairs?
Korean food always makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside. I’m not talking about the chili heat and the bubbling sizzling dolsot and the oksusu cha (옥수수 차), even if that’s part of the reason. If you take off the tongue-torching taste, Korean food is actually very similar to some Northern Vietnamese food, especially the soups and the stir fries. Neither cuisines go down the slippery slope of lard overdose or drown the plates in curry sauces and coconut milk, and both embrace a sweet-savory harmony topping a lot of rice.
But above all, it’s the feel of a Korean restaurant that charms me. It always feels slow. Even if it’s like OB Chicken Town, where the lone waiter has to rush between tables, love songs blast all around, basketball players run across the big TV screen, time still goes by slowly at that wooden table where you’re sitting. Time swirls around in the tea cup. Time lingers like the steam above your dark stone bowl. Time precipitates in each little morsel of banchan that you get served a few minutes after placing your order. Maybe it feels slow because you don’t have to rush shoving food into your mouth, or clearing the table so that the later course can come. It feels slow just like eating at home, when each dinner would take hours because I talked to my mom instead of eating.
So I feel happy at every Korean restaurant I’ve been to, with every Korean dish I’ve tried. I feel happy at Sahn Maru (산 마루) in Oakland. This chulpan bulgogi (출판 불고기) is another pleasant find. I like my choice of mild sauce because the lack of chili paste lets other flavors flourish, but you can choose spicy. The ddeokbokki (떡볶기) is a playful texture that could be done without, while the cellophane noodle buried under a mountain of beef and soaked in marinade is just too great.
On the hot side we have bubbling soondubu jjigae (순도부 찌개). The soft tofu is creamy like scrambled eggs. Pour a few spoons on top of rice, mix it up. You won’t notice the meat, and the meat is totally dispensable. This stew is good because of the fish sauce, the heat, and the creamy tofu.
At the end, the bill gets served with a cup of cold sujeonggwa (수정과). I’m not a fan of cinnamon, but anything sweet and cold just cleanses the throat so nicely. There was no dried persimmon, though.
And I would have said that Sahn Maru was another pleasant experience. But something among the banchan (반찬) makes me change my mind.
The dried anchovies. I’ve had the other things before, odeng bokkeum (오뎅볶음 fried fish cake), buchu jeon (부추전 chive pancake), kimchis, nokdumuk (녹두묵 mungbean jelly), but this is the first time I have myulchi bokkeum (멸치 볶음), stir fried dried anchovies with heads intact. Whatever little flesh the fish used to have has crystallized into tiny perfections of salty sweetness. The fish taste like candied orange peel. I just can’t get enough of it.
Because of the anchovies, Sahn Maru is not just another pleasant experience. Sahn Maru is a place I will visit and revisit, even if it costs a notch above all other Korean diners I’ve come to like.
Those little fish provoke memories of my mom’s ca kho tieu.
See more pictures of Sahn Maru’s dishes at my web album Photon Flavors.
Address: Sahn Maru Korean BBQ
4315 Telegraph Avenue
Oakland, CA 94609
(510) 653-3366
Dining dollars: chulpan bulgogi ($20.95) + soft tofu soup ($11.95) + tax = $36.10
UPDATE: We have also tried a variety of other dishes here, from the usual dolsot bibimbap, japchae, seafood pancake and kalbi tang to the less-known bibimnaengmyun (비빔 냉면, cold buckwheat noodle), joki gui (조기 구이, fried king fish), and duehji kamjajim (돼지 감자찜, braised pork in mild chili sauce with dates and sweet potato). So far, all of them are the best of their kind. 🙂
Today, while I was at work, my cousin stole my apple ipad and tested to see if it can survive a thirty foot drop, just so she can be a youtube sensation. My iPad is now destroyed and she has 83 views. I know this is completely off topic but I had to share it with someone!
1Great goods from you, man. I have understand your stuff previous to and you’re just too magnificent. I really like what you have acquired here, certainly like what you are saying and the way in which you say it. You make it entertaining and you still take care of to keep it wise. I can’t wait to read far more from you. This is actually a terrific site.
2My spouse and I stumbled over here coming from a different page and thought I should check things out. I like what I see so i am just following you. Look forward to looking over your web page yet again.
3I keep listening to the newscast speak about getting free online grant applications so I have been looking around for the most excellent site to get one. Could you tell me please, where could i acquire some?
4I liked up to you’ll obtain carried out right here. The cartoon is attractive, your authored subject matter stylish. however, you command get got an impatience over that you want be handing over the following. ill surely come further in the past once more since exactly the same nearly very continuously inside of case you shield this increase.
5At this time it seems like Drupal is the preferred blogging platform out there right now. (from what I’ve read) Is that what you are using on your blog?
6I really prize your work, Great post.
7It’s really a cool and useful piece of information. I am happy that you shared this useful information with us. Please stay us up to date like this. Thank you for sharing.
8I am really enjoying the theme/design of your web site. Do you ever run into any web browser compatibility problems? A handful of my blog readers have complained about my blog not operating correctly in Explorer but looks great in Firefox. Do you have any advice to help fix this issue?
9I’ve been browsing on-line more than 3 hours lately, yet I never found any interesting article like yours. It’s lovely worth sufficient for me. Personally, if all site owners and bloggers made just right content material as you did, the net can be a lot more useful than ever before.
10Hello! I’ve been reading your website for a long time now and finally got the courage to go ahead and give you a shout out from Austin Tx! Just wanted to say keep up the fantastic work!
11I like what you guys are up too. Such smart work and reporting! Carry on the superb works guys I’ve incorporated you guys to my blogroll. I think it’ll improve the value of my website :).
12Hello, Neat post. There is an issue along with your website in web explorer, would check this… IE still is the market leader and a good component to folks will omit your magnificent writing due to this problem.
13Please let me know if you’re looking for a article writer for your site. You have some really great articles and I believe I would be a good asset. If you ever want to take some of the load off, I’d love to write some material for your blog in exchange for a link back to mine. Please send me an e-mail if interested. Thanks!
14This design is wicked! You most certainly know how to keep a reader entertained. Between your wit and your videos, I was almost moved to start my own blog (well, almost…HaHa!) Excellent job. I really enjoyed what you had to say, and more than that, how you presented it. Too cool!
15Hey, you used to write wonderful, but the last several posts have been kinda boring?K I miss your great writings. Past few posts are just a little out of track! come on!
16Good info. Lucky me I reach on your website by accident, I bookmarked it.
17Just what I was searching for, appreciate it for putting up.
18Hi, Neat post. There’s an issue together with your web site in web explorer, could check this?K IE still is the marketplace leader and a huge component to folks will pass over your wonderful writing because of this problem.
19Some truly quality blog posts on this internet site, saved to favorites.
20I wish to get across my appreciation for your generosity in support of visitors who should have help on this concern. Your real commitment to passing the message across became extremely functional and has all the time permitted associates like me to arrive at their goals. Your amazing informative key points indicates this much to me and even further to my colleagues. Warm regards; from each one of us.
21You have brought up a very excellent points, thankyou for the post.
22Your place is valueble for me. Thanks!…
23Hello, Neat post. There’s a problem together with your web site in internet explorer, would test this?K IE still is the market leader and a big component of other folks will omit your fantastic writing due to this problem.
24Very interesting information!Perfect just what I was searching for!
25Whats Going down i’m new to this, I stumbled upon this I have found It absolutely helpful and it has aided me out loads. I am hoping to give a contribution & help other customers like its helped me. Good job.
26Hello. magnificent job. I did not imagine this. This is a impressive story. Thanks!
27Whats Happening i am new to this, I stumbled upon this I have discovered It absolutely helpful and it has helped me out loads. I hope to give a contribution & aid other users like its aided me. Great job.
28Thanks for another informative website. Where else could I get that kind of info written in such an ideal way? I have a project that I’m just now working on, and I have been on the look out for such information.
29I am not very superb with English but I come up this rattling leisurely to interpret.
30Very interesting points you have observed, appreciate it for putting up.
31naturally like your website however you have to take a look at the spelling on quite a few of your posts. Several of them are rife with spelling problems and I to find it very troublesome to inform the truth however I will definitely come back again.
32Thank you for the auspicious writeup. It in fact used to be a leisure account it. Glance complicated to more added agreeable from you! However, how can we communicate?
33Valuable info. Lucky me I found your website by accident, and I’m shocked why this accident did not happened earlier! I bookmarked it.
34You should take part in a contest for one of the best blogs on the web. I will recommend this site!
35It’s really a nice and useful piece of info. I am glad that you shared this useful info with us. Please keep us up to date like this. Thanks for sharing.
36But a smiling visitor here to share the love (:, btw outstanding style and design.
37Hi, just required you to know I he added your site to my Google bookmarks due to your layout. But seriously, I believe your internet site has 1 in the freshest theme I??ve came across. It extremely helps make reading your blog significantly easier.
38Heya i am for the first time here. I came across this board and I find It truly useful & it helped me out a lot. I hope to give something back and aid others like you helped me.
39I was looking through some of your blog posts on this website and I conceive this web site is rattling informative! Continue posting.
40Precisely what I was searching for, thanks for posting.
41Would you be fascinated with exchanging hyperlinks?
42Good day! I know this is somewhat off topic but I was wondering which blog platform are you using for this website? I’m getting fed up of WordPress because I’ve had issues with hackers and I’m looking at alternatives for another platform. I would be great if you could point me in the direction of a good platform.
43Rattling clean web site, appreciate it for this post.
44I was examining some of your posts on this site and I believe this internet site is real instructive! Continue posting.
45I’ve been exploring for a little bit for any high quality articles or blog posts in this sort of space . Exploring in Yahoo I eventually stumbled upon this web site. Reading this info So i am happy to express that I have a very excellent uncanny feeling I came upon exactly what I needed. I such a lot indubitably will make sure to do not fail to remember this web site and give it a glance regularly.
46hi!,I like your writing very much! share we communicate more about your article on AOL? I need a specialist on this area to solve my problem. May be that’s you! Looking forward to see you.
47As I web site possessor I believe the content material here is rattling magnificent , appreciate it for your hard work. You should keep it up forever! Good Luck.
48Definitely, what a great blog and enlightening posts, I will bookmark your website.All the Best!
49Merely wanna input on few general things, The website style is perfect, the content is rattling great. “All movements go too far.” by Bertrand Russell.
50