Flavor Boulevard

We Asians like to talk food.
Subscribe

The charm of crunchy-skin grilled fish

June 23, 2011 By: Mai Truong Category: Comfort food, Houston, Texas, Vietnamese


Thiên Phú has been in my draft list for over 18 months. I wanted to write a post worthy of their dishes, but a proper post requires proper pictures, and either I was too hungry at the time or I just sucked at taking pictures at the time (I still suck now, but less than before) that every single picture was blurry like a blizzard. I was more concerned about food than food blogging so I didn’t snap many shots and didn’t check the clarity of the shots I took before digging in. I also didn’t know any photo editing. Basically, I was plain dumb.

At many points I thought about abandoning the post altogether, but we had a good meal that time and I even fed the birds in the parking lot while waiting for my friends to come join us. The birds were full, we were full. The restaurant was, as usual, empty except for us (because their menu is catered to large groups and wedding parties), so we got extra attention from the staff. Such memories kept me from deleting the draft that had nothing but terrible pictures. Then my parents came to the rescue when they revisited Thien Phu in the spring and took some luminous shots, like the beef and shrimp salad above and the seafood stir fry on rice below.


The salad, like most Vietnamese salads soaked in that half sweet, half tangy mixed fish sauce, was yummy. The seafood stir fry was nothing beyond expectation, they said, but at the very least, Thiên Phú brown sauce was not fattily thick like that goo in Phở Hà’s pan-fried phở. Dad’s vermicelli with stir fried beef was a good sweep, as evident from its picture.


If you’ve read my blog for long enough, you probably would notice that my dad almost never orders anything but beef, while Little Mom goes for shrimp or fish nine times out of ten. Naturally, Thien Phu ranks high in my parents’ list because their specialties are the 7 courses of beef and the whole grilled fish.


We’ve never tried all seven beef courses at once. We just choose a few that sound most savory, and for this party of 5, something shareable. Like beef that can be wrapped in rice paper and dipped in sauces. The chunky, fatty steamed beef balls (bò chả đùm) was broken into coarser bits to be scooped with a rice crackers or wrapped with lettuce. Razor-thin leaves of still red beef were dunked into heated vinegar for a simple, tender, and tangy completeness of bò nhúng dấm. Halved shrimps joined the beef in a similar fashion to make tôm nhúng dấm. Dad even dipped it in mắm nêm (ground anchovy sauce) to tighten the taste.


Then there’s the good old style of flopping beef slices on a hot black grill pan and hearing it sizzle while loading the wet rice paper with bean sprout, herbs, pickled radish and daikon. I also put a slice of unripe banana in my bò nướng vỉ roll because its cookie-like texture and clinging aftertaste are fun, although they don’t add much to the roll as a whole.


Leaving the blurry images of December 2009, we’re back to the present: grilled beef ball on rice. The marinade was sealed inside its smooth, gritty texture, each ball was so juicy it would shame a plump mango.


The seafood dishes are not subpar either. Loaded with shrimp, squid, and broccoli, mì hải sản (seafood noodle) had the sweetness of hủ tíu Nam Vang (Phnom Penh ka tieu) and the strength (and curly noodles) of ramen. The more broth we drank, the more delicious it got.


But there is one thing that everyone gets when they go to Thiên Phú: the crunchy-skin grilled fish (cá nướng da giòn). The whole catfish is enough for two by itself, grilled hiddenly in the kitchen until its skin breaks a crackling sound and glisters like topaz, then it’s brought out to you topped with crusted peanuts, cilantro and lime wedges. Its flesh stays white, juicy and soft. Roll up a side piece, you can savor its pristine, naturally sweet taste or dip it in nước mắm. The second grilled fish I had here this May was better than the one I had in December 2009, and so were their beef dishes. It’s good to see a good place gets better.

Just watch out for bones.


Address: Thiên Phú Restaurant
11360 Bellaire Blvd Ste 100
Houston, TX 77072
(281) 568-1448
(in the same parking lot as Giò Chả Đức Hương)

Lunch for 5: $76.03

0 Comments to “The charm of crunchy-skin grilled fish”


  1. I admire your work, thanks for all the good articles.

    1
  2. Regards for this grand post, I am glad I found this site on yahoo.

    2
  3. Keep up the good work, I read few posts on this website and I believe that your web blog is real interesting and has lots of superb info .

    3
  4. You have observed very interesting details! ps nice internet site. “I’m going to a special place when I die, but I want to make sure my life is special while I’m here.” by Payne Stewart.

    4
  5. My spouse and I stumbled over here by a different web page and thought I might check things out. I like what I see so now i’m following you. Look forward to checking out your web page for a second time.

    5
  6. Greetings I am so excited I found your webpage, I really found you by error, while I was looking on Askjeeve for something else, Nonetheless I am here now and would just like to say kudos for a fantastic post and a all round enjoyable blog (I also love the theme/design), I don’t have time to go through it all at the moment but I have bookmarked it and also added in your RSS feeds, so when I have time I will be back to read much more, Please do keep up the superb job.

    6
  7. This is the best weblog for anybody who desires to find out about this topic. You realize so much its virtually onerous to argue with you (not that I really would need…HaHa). You positively put a new spin on a subject thats been written about for years. Great stuff, simply great!

    7
  8. Outstanding post however , I was wanting to know if you could write a litte more on this subject? I’d be very grateful if you could elaborate a little bit further. Thanks!

    8
  9. It’s onerous to seek out educated folks on this topic, but you sound like you recognize what you’re speaking about! Thanks

    9
  10. Howdy, i read your blog occasionally and i own a similar one and i was just curious if you get a lot of spam feedback? If so how do you prevent it, any plugin or anything you can recommend? I get so much lately it’s driving me insane so any assistance is very much appreciated.

    10
  11. Its great as your other content : D, appreciate it for posting.

    11
  12. Spot on with this write-up, I really think this web site wants much more consideration. I’ll probably be once more to read far more, thanks for that info.

    12
  13. I do not even understand how I stopped up right here, however I thought this post was good. I don’t realize who you’re however definitely you’re going to a well-known blogger if you aren’t already 😉 Cheers!

    13
  14. Deference to op, some good entropy.

    14
  15. This is a topic close to my heart cheers, where are your contact details though?

    15
  16. Hello would you mind sharing which blog platform you’re working with? I’m looking to start my own blog soon but I’m having a tough time selecting between BlogEngine/Wordpress/B2evolution and Drupal. The reason I ask is because your layout seems different then most blogs and I’m looking for something completely unique. P.S My apologies for getting off-topic but I had to ask!

    16
  17. It’s hard to find knowledgeable people on this topic, but you sound like you know what you’re talking about! Thanks

    17
  18. You got a very good website, Gladiola I discovered it through yahoo.

    18
  19. Good write-up, I am regular visitor of one’s site, maintain up the excellent operate, and It’s going to be a regular visitor for a long time.

    19
  20. Pretty! This was a really wonderful post. Thank you for your provided information.

    20
  21. Enjoyed examining this, very good stuff, regards. “Whenever you want to marry someone, go have lunch with his ex-wife.” by Francis William Bourdillon.

    21
  22. Valuable information. Lucky me I found your website by accident, and I’m shocked why this accident didn’t happened earlier! I bookmarked it.

    22
  23. obviously like your web site but you have to check the spelling on quite a few of your posts. Many of them are rife with spelling problems and I find it very troublesome to tell the truth nevertheless I’ll certainly come back again.

    23
  24. I do believe all the ideas you’ve presented on your post. They are really convincing and will certainly work. Nonetheless, the posts are too brief for novices. Could you please prolong them a bit from subsequent time? Thank you for the post.

    24
  25. I think other web-site proprietors should take this web site as an model, very clean and wonderful user friendly style and design, as well as the content. You’re an expert in this topic!

    25
  26. I’ll right away grab your rss feed as I can’t find your email subscription link or newsletter service. Do you’ve any? Please let me know in order that I could subscribe. Thanks.

    26
  27. I used to be suggested this website via my cousin. I am not sure whether or not this put up is written by way of him as no one else realize such exact approximately my trouble. You’re wonderful! Thanks!

    27
  28. I reckon something genuinely special in this website.

    28
  29. Its superb as your other blog posts : D, appreciate it for putting up. “I catnap now and then, but I think while I nap, so it’s not a waste of time.” by Martha Stewart.

    29
  30. Excellent site. A lot of useful information here. I am sending it to a few friends ans also sharing in delicious. And obviously, thank you to your effort!

    30
  31. This is the right blog for anyone who wants to find out about this topic. You realize so much its almost hard to argue with you (not that I actually would want…HaHa). You definitely put a new spin on a topic thats been written about for years. Great stuff, just great!

    31
  32. Cool blog! Is your theme custom made or did you download it from somewhere? A theme like yours with a few simple adjustements would really make my blog jump out. Please let me know where you got your theme. Thanks

    32
  33. Hey just wanted to give you a quick heads up. The words in your article seem to be running off the screen in Opera. I’m not sure if this is a formatting issue or something to do with internet browser compatibility but I figured I’d post to let you know. The style and design look great though! Hope you get the problem resolved soon. Kudos

    33
  34. Would love to perpetually get updated great blog! .

    34
  35. I love it when people come together and share opinions, great blog, keep it up.

    35
  36. Howdy! I simply wish to give an enormous thumbs up for the nice data you could have right here on this post. I might be coming again to your weblog for more soon.

    36
  37. Its wonderful as your other posts : D, thanks for posting.

    37
  38. As I website owner I conceive the subject matter here is real good, appreciate it for your efforts.

    38
  39. whoah this blog is fantastic i love reading your articles. Keep up the great work! You know, a lot of people are hunting around for this info, you can aid them greatly.

    39
  40. I’m curious to find out what blog system you’re using? I’m experiencing some small security problems with my latest site and I would like to find something more secure. Do you have any solutions?

    40
  41. I think other web site proprietors should take this web site as an model, very clean and wonderful user friendly style and design, let alone the content. You are an expert in this topic!

    41
  42. I’ve recently started a web site, the info you offer on this website has helped me tremendously. Thank you for all of your time & work.

    42
  43. Hey! I could have sworn I’ve been to this website before but after reading through some of the post I realized it’s new to me. Nonetheless, I’m definitely glad I found it and I’ll be bookmarking and checking back often!

    43
  44. I have read several good stuff here. Certainly worth bookmarking for revisiting. I wonder how much effort you put to make such a great informative site.

    44
  45. Wonderful goods from you, man. I’ve remember your stuff previous to and you are simply too magnificent. I really like what you’ve got here, certainly like what you’re stating and the best way through which you are saying it. You’re making it enjoyable and you still care for to stay it wise. I can’t wait to learn much more from you. That is really a great website.

    45
  46. I enjoy forgathering utile information , this post has got me even more info! .

    46
  47. Hore google adalah raja saya yang menolong saya menemukan situs yang luar biasa! .

    47
  48. Halo, saya hanya ingin mengatakan bahwa saya sangat menikmati membaca postingan blog Anda. Ini adalah tepat jenis informasi yang sedang saya cari. Saya akan merekomendasikan ini kepada orang lain. Terima kasih banyak telah berbagi.

    48
  49. Really superb visual appeal on this web site, I’d rate it 10 10.

    49
  50. F*ckin’ remarkable issues here. I am very glad to see your post. Thank you so much and i am taking a look ahead to contact you. Will you please drop me a e-mail?

    50


Leave a Reply