Sandwich Shop Goodies 19 – Bánh tiêu (Chinese sesame beignet)
Little Mom and I… we just have different tastes. She likes seafood. She prefers crunchy to soft. She doesn’t like sticky rice (!) She thinks the mini sponge muffins (bánh bò bông, the Vietnamese kind) are sourer than the white chewy honeycombs (bánh bò, the Chinese kind). I beg to differ. The mini sponges can be eaten alone; the honeycombs are almost always stuffed inside a hollow fried doughnut that is more savory than sweet: their sourness needs to be suppressed by the natural saltiness of oil and the airy crunch of fried batter. That doughnut, brought to us by the Chinese and called by us “bánh tiêu“, saves the honeycombs.
The honeycombs could go hang out with the dodo for all I care, but this Saigonese would always appreciate a well-fried bánh tiêu. At any time of the day, one would be able to spot a street cart with the signature double-shelf glass box next to a vat of dark yellow oil. The oil gets darkened from frying too many doughnuts too many times. Sure, it isn’t healthy. But should you really care about health when you eat fried dough?
“Fried dough has appeared in different forms – round, square, triangular, twisted – under many different names. The Dutch settlers had olykoeks (oily cakes); the French in Louisiana had beignets; the Spanish from Mexico made puchas de canela; and the Pennsylvania Germans made fastnachts around Lent.” (Jill MacNeice, “Doughnuts“, in the Roadside Food collection) Now I may add that the Vietnamese in California and Texas have bánh tiêu. One quality of bánh tiêu to make it superior over the other fried doughs: it isn’t coated in powder sugar. Studded with white sesame on one side, it tastes subtly salty of dough, fat, and roasted grain.
An excerpt about Vietnamese vendors making dầu cháo quẩy and bánh tiêu:
Vốc một nhúm bột khô rải đều trên bề mặt miếng gỗ đã trơn bóng – cốt để bột nhồi không bị dính – tiếp tục ngắt một cục bột đã ủ cho lên men, nhẹ nhàng vuốt dọc rồi dùng cây lăn cán qua, miếng bột đã được kéo ra thành một dây bột dài mỏng đều. Người bán lại tiếp tục dùng một thanh tre cật mỏng, xắn bột thành từng miếng đều nhau. Xếp chồng hai miếng bột lên rồi dùng một chiếc đũa ấn mạnh ở giữa, thế là đã được miếng bột “chuẩn” để làm bánh quẩy. Còn bánh tiêu thì phải qua công đoạn vốc một nắm mè vất ra giữa miếng gỗ để mè tự rải đều, sau đó mới dùng bột đã ủ đã nhồi cán thành miếng tròn dẹp, một mặt dính mè, một mặt không.
[…]
Bánh quẩy và bánh tiêu thường bán chung, có lẽ chủ yếu là vì hai loại bột làm bánh này không khác nhau là mấy. Cũng bột mì nhồi với bột khai là chính. Nhưng với bánh quẩy, người ta cho thêm chút muối, chỉ một chút thôi đủ để bánh không lạt lẽo, nhưng vẫn còn giữ được độ ngọt nguyên thủy của bột mì.
Còn với bánh tiêu, người ta lại cho thêm ít đường, cũng rất ít, đủ để làm dậy hơn vị ngọt của bột. Vị ngọt của bánh tiêu vì thế rất nhẹ, không như những loại bánh ngọt khác. Với bánh tiêu, người mua cũng không đòi hỏi phải giòn đến như bánh quẩy. Cái hấp dẫn ở bánh tiêu lại là ở những hạt mè thơm ngậy. Những hạt mè trắng li ti sau khi chiên trở nên căng mẩy, quyện với mùi thơm của bột mì chiên giòn trở nên hấp dẫn kỳ lạ. Nếu như bánh quẩy thường được cho vào dùng chung với cháo, với phở thì bánh tiêu thường được dùng kèm với bánh bò. Xẻ đôi chiếc bánh tiêu, kẹp vào giữa miếng bánh bò nữa là được một loại hương vị khác hẳn. Cái mềm xốp của bánh bò khiến bánh tiêu – vốn hơi khô – trở nên dễ ăn hơn, đỡ ngán hơn. Các loại nhân ăn kèm bánh tiêu cũng khá phong phú, tùy sở thích mỗi người. Có người mách nhau kẹp xôi vào giữa, ăn cũng rất ngon, lại có thể thay quà sáng. Có người lại thích nhân “cadé”, là loại nhân làm bằng trứng gà có vị béo ngầy ngậy, rất hợp với bánh tiêu.
Translated and abridged:
[The vendor] scoops up some flour and sprinkles them on the shining flat wooden board, to keep the dough from sticking, then he pinches off a ball of fermented dough, gently pulls it and runs the rolling pin once over to stretch the ball into a thin strip. Then he grabs a sharp bamboo stick, swiftly cuts the strip into smaller, even strips. Putting two strips on top of each other, pressing a chopstick down in the middle, and he gets a “standard” piece of bánh quẩy ready to fry. For bánh tiêu, he would need to sprinkle a pinch of sesame seeds on the board, then flatten the dough into disks, one side studded with seeds, the other side having none.
[…]
Bánh quẩy and bánh tiêu are often sold together because they have similar dough. Mainly, flour and baking soda. For bánh quẩy, they add some salt to make it savory, but not too much that it would diminish the flour’s natural sweetness. But for bánh tiêu, they would add a pinch of sugar to boost that sweetness. Bánh tiêu doesn’t have to be as crunchy as bánh quẩy either. Its goodness lies in the sesames’ fragrant nuttiness. As bánh quẩy is often eaten with rice porridge or noodle soup, bánh tiêu goes with bánh bò. Slit the bánh tiêu open, stuff in a piece of the soft white honeycomb bánh bò, and you get a whole new snack. Some people substitute bánh bò with sweet sticky rice or with egg custard, that really fattens it up.
In Saigon, Vietnam: 1000 VND each.
At Bánh Mì Ba Lẹ, Oakland: 1 USD each. (1 USD ~ 20000 VND)
Address: Bánh Mì Ba Lẹ (East Oakland)
1909 International Blvd
Oakland, CA 94606
(510) 261-9800
Previously on Sandwich Shop Goodies: steamed taro cake (bánh khoai môn hấp)
Next on Sandwich Shop Goodies: Xôi khúc (cudweed sticky rice)
Ресурс «Мультиварка. Рецепти — смачно і просто» – це практичний українською кладовка ідей із сотнею з гаком випробуваними стравами під мультиварку. На сайті зібрані в одному місці легкі схеми дій для перших страв яловичини свинини курки десертів у мультиварці гарнірів із круп овочевих страв риби та десертів. Головна фішка — це увага до комфорту: поклав продукти в чашу обрав програму — і страва готова. Переважна більшість пропозицій виходять з невеликою кількістю олії страва стабільний навіть у початківців. Щотижня зявляються нові нові рецепти зокрема хліб рисовий та пиріг з полуницею на пісковому тісті доступна опція бути в курсі оновлень.
1Does your site have a contact page? I’m having a tough time locating it but, I’d like to shoot you an e-mail. I’ve got some recommendations for your blog you might be interested in hearing. Either way, great blog and I look forward to seeing it improve over time.
2Hi! I’ve beedn readin yoiur bblog foor a while noow and finally goot tthe bravey to goo ahead annd give yoou a shout outt frkm Porter
3Texas! Just wated too mention keewp uup thee grfeat job!
xnxx
Hmm it looks like your site ate my first comment (it was extremely long) so I guess I’ll just sum it up what I submitted and say, I’m thoroughly enjoying your blog. I too am an aspiring blog blogger but I’m still new to the whole thing. Do you have any helpful hints for first-time blog writers? I’d certainly appreciate it.
4very nice submit, i actually love this website, carry on it
5I have recently started a site, the info you provide on this website has helped me greatly. Thanks for all of your time & work.
6Great blog you have here but I was curious if you knew of any community forums that cover the same topics talked about here? I’d really love to be a part of group where I can get feedback from other knowledgeable people that share the same interest. If you have any recommendations, please let me know. Bless you!
7Hi there, I found your website via Google while looking for a related topic, your web site came up, it looks good. I’ve bookmarked it in my google bookmarks.
8This is the best weblog for anyone who wants to search out out about this topic. You realize so much its almost arduous to argue with you (not that I actually would need…HaHa). You definitely put a brand new spin on a subject thats been written about for years. Nice stuff, simply nice!
9Wow that was strange. I just wrote an incredibly long comment but after I clicked submit my comment didn’t show up. Grrrr… well I’m not writing all that over again. Anyway, just wanted to say fantastic blog!
10Lovely website! I am loving it!! Will be back later to read some more. I am taking your feeds also.
11he blog was how do i say it… relevant, finally something that helped me. Thanks
12My coder is trying to convince me to move to .net from PHP. I have always disliked the idea because of the costs. But he’s tryiong none the less. I’ve been using WordPress on several websites for about a year and am nervous about switching to another platform. I have heard very good things about blogengine.net. Is there a way I can transfer all my wordpress posts into it? Any kind of help would be greatly appreciated!
13Good day! Do you know if they make any plugins to assist with Search Engine Optimization? I’m trying to get my blog to rank for some targeted keywords but I’m not seeing very good gains. If you know of any please share. Many thanks!
14Regards for all your efforts that you have put in this. very interesting information.
15Thank you for every other informative site. The place else may I get that kind of info written in such a perfect way? I have a challenge that I’m simply now working on, and I’ve been at the glance out for such info.
16Great remarkable things here. I’m very happy to peer your article. Thank you so much and i am taking a look forward to contact you. Will you kindly drop me a mail?
17Useful info. Lucky me I discovered your site accidentally, and I am shocked why this coincidence did not happened earlier! I bookmarked it.
18Some truly interesting points you have written.Assisted me a lot, just what I was searching for :D.
19When I initially commented I clicked the “Notify me when new comments are added” checkbox and now each time a comment is added I get several emails with the same comment. Is there any way you can remove people from that service? Appreciate it!
20Can I just say what a relief to find someone who actually knows what theyre talking about on the internet. You definitely know how to bring an issue to light and make it important. More people need to read this and understand this side of the story. I cant believe youre not more popular because you definitely have the gift.
21Hello. magnificent job. I did not anticipate this. This is a fantastic story. Thanks!
22Hey there, You have done an incredible job. I’ll certainly digg it and personally recommend to my friends. I am confident they will be benefited from this website.
23Valuable information. Lucky me I found your web site by chance, and I’m shocked why this coincidence did not happened in advance! I bookmarked it.
24Some really interesting information, well written and generally user pleasant.
25Merely a smiling visitant here to share the love (:, btw great layout. “The price one pays for pursuing a profession, or calling, is an intimate knowledge of its ugly side.” by James Arthur Baldwin.
26I real pleased to find this website on bing, just what I was looking for : D too saved to favorites.
27I’m really inspired with your writing talents and also with the format for your weblog. Is this a paid subject or did you modify it yourself? Anyway stay up the nice quality writing, it is uncommon to peer a great blog like this one today..
28Magnificent site. Plenty of useful info here. I am sending it to a few friends ans also sharing in delicious. And obviously, thanks for your sweat!
29Wow that was unusual. I just wrote an extremely long comment but after I clicked submit my comment didn’t appear. Grrrr… well I’m not writing all that over again. Anyhow, just wanted to say great blog!
30After I initially commented I clicked the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and now each time a remark is added I get four emails with the identical comment. Is there any way you possibly can remove me from that service? Thanks!
31Excellent beat ! I wish to apprentice while you amend your site, how could i subscribe for a blog website? The account helped me a acceptable deal. I had been tiny bit acquainted of this your broadcast provided bright clear concept
32Thank you for some other wonderful post. Where else could anybody get that type of information in such an ideal approach of writing? I’ve a presentation next week, and I’m on the look for such information.
33Outstanding post, you have pointed out some fantastic points, I besides believe this s a very excellent website.
34You actually make it seem so easy with your presentation but I to find this topic to be actually something which I think I’d never understand. It sort of feels too complex and very vast for me. I’m having a look ahead in your next put up, I’ll try to get the dangle of it!
35Thank you for sharing excellent informations. Your web-site is very cool. I am impressed by the details that you have on this website. It reveals how nicely you perceive this subject. Bookmarked this web page, will come back for extra articles. You, my friend, ROCK! I found simply the info I already searched all over the place and simply could not come across. What a perfect website.
36There are certainly a number of details like that to take into consideration. That may be a great level to bring up. I offer the thoughts above as common inspiration but clearly there are questions just like the one you deliver up where the most important thing will probably be working in honest good faith. I don?t know if greatest practices have emerged round issues like that, however I am positive that your job is clearly identified as a good game. Both girls and boys really feel the impression of only a second’s pleasure, for the remainder of their lives.
37Magnificent web site. A lot of useful information here. I’m sending it to some friends ans also sharing in delicious. And certainly, thanks for your sweat!
38I am continually looking online for ideas that can assist me. Thank you!
39whoah this blog is great i love reading your posts. Keep up the good work! You know, lots of people are looking around for this information, you can help them greatly.
40Excellent post. I was checking constantly this blog and I’m impressed! Extremely helpful info particularly the last part 🙂 I care for such information much. I was looking for this certain info for a very long time. Thank you and good luck.
41Some truly nice and useful info on this internet site, too I conceive the style holds fantastic features.
42Thanx for the effort, keep up the good work Great work, I am going to start a small Blog Engine course work using your site I hope you enjoy blogging with the popular BlogEngine.net.Thethoughts you express are really awesome. Hope you will right some more posts.
43Some genuinely fantastic work on behalf of the owner of this website , perfectly outstanding content.
44It’s perfect time to make a few plans for the long run and it’s time to be happy. I’ve learn this publish and if I may I desire to recommend you some attention-grabbing things or advice. Maybe you can write subsequent articles regarding this article. I want to learn more things approximately it!
45I believe that is among the most important info for me. And i’m satisfied reading your article. But should remark on some normal things, The website style is ideal, the articles is actually excellent :D. Good job, cheers
46Very nice post. I just stumbled upon your weblog and wished to say that I have really enjoyed surfing around your blog posts. After all I will be subscribing to your rss feed and I hope you write again soon!
47This is a topic close to my heart cheers, where are your contact details though?
48I beloved up to you will obtain carried out proper here. The comic strip is tasteful, your authored subject matter stylish. nonetheless, you command get bought an nervousness over that you want be delivering the following. sick undoubtedly come further until now again since exactly the similar nearly very ceaselessly within case you shield this hike.
49Hello! Do you know if they make any plugins to safeguard against hackers? I’m kinda paranoid about losing everything I’ve worked hard on. Any recommendations?
50