Flavor Boulevard

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One shot: lunch at Chano-ma Nakameguro

November 03, 2014 By: Mai Truong Category: Flavor Japan, Japanese, Travel

chano-ma-lunch
Comfy seating on white cushion, a tray of simple, delicious lunch, and a look out to the Meguro river. In the middle of Tokyo, there seems to be always little coves like this for a cozy, relaxing brunch.

chano-ma-latte
The lunch set includes a nice big bowl of rice, soup, 3 sides of choice and dessert (or a finishing drink) for 1250 yen (~ 12 USD). The latte art may be wanting, but I’d rather dive into my matcha latte with no remorse than adoring little bears or cats too much to drink them. ๐Ÿ˜›

Address: Chano-ma at Nakameguro
ใ€’153-0051 ๆฑไบฌ้ƒฝ็›ฎ้ป’ๅŒบไธŠ็›ฎ้ป’1-22-4-6F
chano-ma webpage

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Guest blogged by C. from Katsushika.

Cafe Calaugh – why no cats came to me?

September 18, 2014 By: Mai Truong Category: Cafes, Flavor Japan, Japanese, Travel

Yesterday Kristen posted on Facebook pictures of cutie fluffy four-legged pals that walk all around her in a cat cafe. I’m so jealous, Kristen! My jealousy is as high as Mt. Fuji right now. You know the (almost) first thing I did when I went to Japan? I looked for a cat cafe.

cafe_calaugh_cat_stays_away
Unfortunately, just about everybody decided to go to the same cat cafe that day (I wished I had found a less popular cafe, this one being on the internet with English and all just makes it too known). One middle-age man chased the cats around relentlessly. (He wanted their attention just as much as I did. I feel you, man.) Then after he was about to leave, a couple came in and the girl took over the chasing duty. >__> All of the cats retreated under chairs and onto inaccessible window sills. My phone sucks at taking their pictures. One cat semi-approached me, but somebody (either the middle-age man or the girl) inched to him and he left. Me devastated.

cafe-calaugh-affogato-ice
I spent an hour there reading, trying to hide my misery, but I was too heart-broken to even get through 2 pages. At least the affogato ice cream (800 yen) was good.

tokyo_shrine_cat
To end on a bright note though, look at this sweet cotton ball I found at a small shrine near Kameido Tenjin shrine (ไบ€ๆˆธๅคฉ็ฅž็คพ). He let me pet him! HE LET ME PET HIM!!! I was in tears.

Address: Cafe Calaugh
Asakusaekimae Bld. 2F, 2-19-13,
Kaminarimon, Taito-ku, Tokyo
calaugh.com

โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”-
Guest blogged by C. from Katsushika.

Chuseok Meal: ์นผ๊ตญ์ˆ˜ (Kalguksu)

September 16, 2014 By: Kristen Category: Flavor Abroad: Boulevard-ing in Seoul, Korean, noodle soup

Chuseok (์ถ”์„) is a major holiday in South Korea; this year the holiday fell on September 8th. Chuseok celebrates the harvest and is referred to as “Korean Thanksgiving” and is similar to other harvest festivals that follow the lunar calendar, such as the Mid-Autumn Festival (ไธญ็ง‹่Š‚, zhongqie jie). It is seen as a time to spend with family and so people usually leave the major cities (such as Seoul) to go back to their hometowns to spend time with their families. This Chuseok, I had the pleasure of spending time with my partner’s family.

We ended up eating out on Chuseok day itself and to an amazing restaurant, both in taste and in the amount of food! The restaurant is large and spacious. The name is ํ™ฉ๋„ ๋ฐ”์ง€๋ฝ ์นผ๊ตญ์ˆ˜ (Huangdo pajirak kalguksu…I’m not sure if this is the right romanization, so please correct me if I’m wrong…I’m still terrible at translating Korean sounds ใ… ใ… ).

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Once we got inside and ordered our main dish (์นผ๊ตญ์ˆ˜, kalguksu), we headed over to the self-serve bar, which consisted of do-it-yourself “barley meal” (๋ณด๋ฆฌ๋ฐฅ boribap). I haven’t have known how to assemble the dish on my own, but turns out it’s pretty simple! Take a scoop of barley, a dabbling of gochujang, and a dash of sesame oil. Add in some ์—ด๋ฌด๊น€์น˜ (young radish kimchi) and mix a la bibimbap!

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This proved to be a great starter to whet our appetites, but if I had known the size of the main dish, I would have been a little more careful about the amount of boribap I ate!

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It’s extremely difficult to really see the scale of this bowl from the picture, but it was the size of a small tub. In fact, it is probably the same size as my laundry bucket! I was informed that this is the 3-person-sized bowl (we had 4 people with us) so I am a little nervous to even think about how big this soup can get. Eating noodles from a tub was definitely an interesting experience…

10678209_10152636081035733_1540265310_o

Here is a picture of my (normal-sized) bowl. I was amazed by this dish…the broth is so light and tasted wonderfully of clam broth. It brought me right back to my New England roots! The clams weren’t super exciting, but they were addicting to eat, although I have to admit that I liked the broth more than the actual clams. The noodles were wonderfully cooked and had a nice chew to it and did not get soggy even after I went back for thirds! I got full fast thoughย because I ended up gulping so much of the broth! This was an amazingly delicious restaurant and spending the holiday with my partner’s family was very nice, especially since I don’t have my own family here in Seoul with me.

There are so many Korean dishes that I have never heard of and I look forward to continuing to blog about my eating experiences!

One Shot: Chocolate Donut from Dunkin’ Donuts

September 14, 2014 By: Kristen Category: Flavor Abroad: Boulevard-ing in Seoul, One shot, sweet snacks and desserts, Travel

I am obsessed with these doughnuts (or is it spelled donuts?).

10577152_10152604435730733_1283127238514324132_n

I have a mild obsession with doughnuts…as in, once in a while, I will crave them but it’s usually pretty rare. However, after having a bite of this doughnut during a conference at Korea University this summer, I instantly became obsessed and have been craving them ever since. These doughnuts are “mochi doughnuts” and have the same chewy consistency as mochi but a little doughier. It’s like eating super fluffy, chewy, light-as-air dough. The texture kills me. And the chocolate frosting…yum!

I did try a coffee flavored doughnut but it wasn’t as tasty and there is another flavor that is labeled as “olive,” which I have yet to try.

These doughnuts resemble the popular Mister Donut doughnuts and because of their commercials with the little lion that eats its own mane, I call them “moinchy donuts.”

This Dunkin’ Donuts is located in the Pyeongtaek train station, so while waiting to take the train back to Seoul, I usually end up eating one because I just can’t resist the “moinchy” texture.

PLANT in Itaewon

September 02, 2014 By: Kristen Category: Comfort food, Flavor Abroad: Boulevard-ing in Seoul, Korean, Travel, Vegan

It has been a little over 2 weeks since I have arrived in Seoul, although it feels alternatively like I’ve only just arrived here and like I have been here for ages! I have to be honest in writing that I still feel homesick at times and that adjusting is a little more difficult when I realize that I’ll be staying in Seoul for a longer time period than just a vacation. I just began Korean language classes and may potentially audit a course with my faculty advisor at Ewha so I think the routine of being a student will help me to feel more settled. Of course, my partner and his family have been so supportive as well and I feel so lucky to have them because otherwise I would be even more of a nervous wreck than I already am! I supposed I should move on to the food though…this time, I am profiling a restaurant that I ate at over the summer with a friend. The restaurant’s name is PLANTย and it is located in Itaewon, an area of Seoul that is particularly known for being foreigner-friendly. I knew of the restaurant through the owner’s food blog, Alien’s Day Out, which I had been following for a while! The restaurant is entirely vegan and while I normally am not drawn to vegan restaurants, the food porn on the blog has had me hooked. After a year of being tortured by those amazing photographs, I finally had the opportunity to go to the restaurant and try it. 10438992_10152441365190733_1806854670800582791_n The restaurant is super cute with comfortable cushions on the back wall and despite its small size, it is super cozy and just the embodiment of cute. 10303879_10152441365275733_5931183127998558142_n 10388648_10152441365565733_5180804222809846540_n 1525023_10152441365405733_5807953518272144772_n The chef and blogger’s specialty is desserts, but I found myself drawn more to the savory dishes, but that is solely because I am just now a cake or heavy dessert person. Which is not to say that these desserts weren’t amazing, because they definitely were! It’s just that I would always pick amazing savory foods over amazing desserts! In any case, the food here was simply amazing and definitely lived up to my expectations! We began with some drinks:

Soy milk tea (right) and strawberry lemonade (right)

Soy milk tea (right) and strawberry lemonade (right)

My lactose-intolerant body was very happy for the soy milk tea. The strawberry lemonade was perfect for a hot and humid Seoul summer. As for the food, this is where I was really blown away. Between my friend and I, we ordered as much of the menu as possible and seeing that there are two savory choices that rotate every day, we got both:

Vegan burrito

Vegan burrito

Lentil burger salad

Lentil burger salad

I have to admit that my mind is a little fuzzy and I cannot remember what was inside the burrito, but I did manage to take a photograph of the innards: 10363810_10152441366365733_817639050780328110_n I was blown away by both the burrito and the salad, but between the two, I think the salad stole the day for me. The lentil burger was smothered with a sauce that tasted very similar to a barbecue sauce and it was so rich that I felt as if I was eating a meat burger. I wanted more burgers despite being stuffed. The dressing was amazing as well: it tasted like a Caesar dressing and the little pieces of tofu(?) had the texture of foie gras terrine – smooth, rich, buttery, and just melts in the mouth. YUM. And on top of that, crusty bread. The non-vegan in me craved some butter and salt on top of the bread, but I was happy noshing on the bread on its own. Even though I was full after the feast, we could not skip out on desserts, especially since I have been tantalized by so many photographs of delicious desserts. We had two slices of cake: dark chocolate peanut butter cake and hummingbird cake, which consists of pineapple, banana, and coconut. YUM YUM YUM. I am not a chocolate cake person but I enjoyed this cake, especially that peanut butter frosting. If I could, I would eat an entire jar of it. As for the hummingbird cake, the fruitiness fit my style more and I love the dried bits of fruit inside.

Dark chocolate peanut butter cake

Dark chocolate peanut butter cake

Hummingbird cake

Hummingbird cake

The food was so good that we got some little snacks to take out! We ended up noshing on them a few hours later while lounging on the top of Namsan Tower! 10441366_10152441365465733_2432992531667197389_n My favorite were the Mexican Hot Chocolate Snickerdoodles – it ended up being the most popular among me, my friend, and my partner. The coconut chews were a close second and they tasted like coconut macaroons. The pomegranate cranberry cookie bites received mix reviews, but I liked the tartness of the little cookie. The gluten free lemon drops were not liked by my friend and partner – the taste was described as “weird,” but I still enjoyed them, although I would agree that the Mexican Hot Chocolate Snickerdoodles stole the show. They were perfect though to sustain us after our trek to Namsan through the rain.

High-fiving the Seoul mascot!

High-fiving the Seoul mascot!

Rainy day view

Rainy day view

SO much rain

SO much rain

Flavor Japan: best Japanese fastfood

August 26, 2014 By: Mai Truong Category: Flavor Japan, Japanese, savory snacks, Travel

There’s a Mister Donut near our apartment, but I still haven’t walked into it once (*). As much as I like Mos Burger (which is better than McDonalds Japan, which in turns is inarguably better than McDonalds US, of course ๐Ÿ˜‰ ), I prefer the fastfoods that we don’t have.

1. Takoyaki

gindako-takoyaki
Fluffy and bouncy. Inside each of these shining orbs is a piece of real octopus. When I die, I want to be buried with takoyaki (which is also the name of my phone, by the way)…

2. Taiyaki

gindako-taiyaki
Normal taiyaki is a-okay (I’m not THAT into red bean paste, but I like the doughy part outside). Nonetheless, Gindako makes these croissant-crust taiyaki (210 yen) with croissant dough instead of pancake batter for the outside, and they sprinkle sugar crystals on it. Oh man….

3. Sushi

Kaitenzushi near Kashiwa eki
Few things can be faster than sitting down at a conveyor belt and picking up plates of food floating by you. This kaienzushi (conveyor-belt sushi) is rather more intimate (less fastfood-y) than other kaitenzushi’s because the chef is right there, and you can ask him to prepare specific nigiri to order.

kaitenzushi-pudding
The most rewarding plate that I look forward to all night was after the fish, though. My friend said that I can buy loads of these puddings at the store. Well, what does that matter? Little Kana in Papadol! likes the pudding at kaitenzushi, and we can’t get it at a traditional sushi-ya, that makes it plenty special!

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Guest blogged by C. from Katsushika.

Foodnotes:
(*) I have had a Mister Donut donut, however, in the form of a dessert Mos “burger” with strawberry sauce, chocolate with rice puffs, strawberry whip cream and fresh fruits (290 yen):

mos-dessert-burger
More Mos Burger + Mister Donut creations here. (I want the French Cruller so bad!)

Flavor Japan: Summer eating in Tokyo

August 19, 2014 By: Mai Truong Category: Festivals, Flavor Japan, Japanese, sweet snacks and desserts, Travel

When I sawย GaijinPot published 2 pieces on summer food and summer festival food in Japan, I wanted to write a piece on the same topic, but I got skewered like a dango stick in work. Now that summer is on its way out, here’s an account of what we can (and should) eat in summer in Tokyo – for next year, that is ๐Ÿ˜‰ .

THE SAVORY:

Unaju at Oodawa (~ $20 per set)

Unaju at Oodawa (~ $20 per set)

1. Eel: this is THE summer food. We Asians believe that eels help cooling the body. Do I feel bad helping to decrease the dwindling number of eels? Yes. Do I get scarred for life by the horrific eel massacre scene in “Jiro: Dreams of Sushi”? Yes. I can proudly say that I had not eaten any eel this summer except this one unaju because my friend’s boss recommended my friend to recommend me of this Oodawa shop near Kashiwa station.
(Gotta say though, most Japanese dishes are naturally 548 times better in Japan than in the States, BUT unaju is not one of them.)

ayuyaki
2. Grilled ayu on a stick: basically you should eat anything on a stick. This “sweet fish” is grilled on coal, coated with enough salt to pickle your stomach, and full of tiny bones. You eat it for the spirit of festivals, mostly.

Katsushika Iris Festival in Katsushika Park - a rainy Sunday in June

Katsushika Iris Festival in Katsushika Park – a rainy Sunday in June

cucumber-stick
3. Cucumber on a stick: can’t get any more heat-combatant than this.

somen-set
4. Cold noodles: soba, somen, cold pasta with boiled anchovies. They’re MUCH better than they sound to our hot-soup-acquainted ears.

highschoolfest-okonomiyaki
5. Okonomiyaki: not the ones in okonomiyaki shops, but the ones highschoolers make at their school festivals. We chanced upon one of them right next to Kencho-ji when we were exhausted by heat and humans in Kamakura. It was cheap and delicious.

highschool-festival-next-to-Kencho-ji
Standing in line with all those kids in uniforms, I felt as if I were in an anime.

One of many temple structures in Kencho-ji, the oldest Zen temple in Kamakura.

One of many temple structures in Kencho-ji, the oldest Zen temple in Kamakura.

THE SWEET:

mitsumame
1. Mitsumame: I know some people would MUCH prefer kakigori, but thirst-quenching as it is, I have a morbid fear of eating shaved ice because in some distant past, my mom said kids who chew on ice would soon lose their teeth. So I seek shelter in ice cream. Mitsumame has ice cream, and mochi, and fruits, and syrup.

Two types of warabi mochi on the far left - at a mochi shop in the Sky Tree center.

Two types of warabi mochi on the far left – at a mochi shop in the Sky Tree center.

2. Warabi mochi: of all types of mochi, dango, and daifuku, warabi mochi is the lightest, mildest, and coolest. It just soothes your throat. Green helps too, I felt like I was eating something healthy.

supermarket-fruits
3. Fruits: eat fruits if you have no more windows to throw your money out of. Remove 2 zeros from the price tags and you get the price in USD. $14 for a pound of grapes and $35 for a few peaches?! This is one of those times when I don’t like Japan.

โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”——————————-

Guest blogged by C. from Katsushika, Tokyo.

Flavor Japan – Somen

August 06, 2014 By: Mai Truong Category: Flavor Japan, Japanese, Travel

somen-set
The third installment of the “Flavor Japan – Noodles” series: somen, i.e., Noodles Part 3. Somen is thin white wheat noodle, much thinner than udon and much lighter than soba (buckwheat noodle). Why have I not seen any somen in The States?!! It most closely resembles the Vietnamese bรบn in bรบn thแป‹t nฦฐแป›ng (grilled pork with rice vermicelli). Is that why I love it the most now, more than ramen, udon or soba? Maybe. This noodle is such a beauty.

IMG_2192
The day we had it was also a beauty. We were wandering around Fukagawa at 10:45 or so and no restaurant that we wanted to try was open. Then I heard drumming and chanting, so I dragged Mutsumi toward the sound and ended up in Naritasan Fukagawa Fudoudou. Two imageries of this big temple will stay forever in my head: 1. a modern hall whose white outer walls are covered with a Sanskrit mantra in black, and 2. the fire ceremony with powerful drums, beautiful garments of the monks, and exceedingly warm and mellow chanting. We came in the middle of the ceremony, and it went on for at least another 30 minutes. The experience was so serene and so efficacious that I felt blessed being there. (Actually, the monks perform this ceremony daily, but chancing upon it without knowing about neither the temple nor the time of the ceremony beforehand is pretty miraculous already, don’t you think?). Photos were not allowed, and the atmosphere made me too obliged to be sneaky.

fukagawa-rice-noodle-shop
Our luck improved after the ceremony: restaurants had finally opened. By myself, I probably wouldn’t have wandered into this unassuming little shop though, because I wasn’t in the mood for noodles (!!!), but Mutsumi was, and how wise she was!

fkgw-shopmenu
The menu outside.

fkgw-inside-shop
The inside. Just enough room to seat 10 people downstairs, and if I’m not mistaken, there’s some seating upstairs too, for Mutsumi recognized a famous comedian walking upstairs to lunch.

fukagawadon
Mutsumi got the regional specialty: fukagawa don – rice bowl topped with clam and tofu. The clam and tofu are simmered in some miso-based sauce just sweet and savory enough to contrastย the refreshing quick-pickle and grated daikon on the side. Story (from Mutsumi) has it that the geisha of this district liked fukagawa don, and I’m inclined to believe that the geishas were connoisseurs.

somen-set-angle
My lunch set was more captivating than I expected: a small bowl of fukagawa don, tsukemono, the most pillowy piece of fried egg I ever had, tempura, SOMEN, and its accompanying dipping sauce. The somen went down so easily I had to refrain from finishing too fast. Little did I know, my eating was a spectacle to Mutsumi. She thought to herself at first that there was no way I would finish everything, and to her amazement not only did I finish it, I had room for dessert a few minutes later. (^_^)

I can’t read the name of the shop, but if you’re ever in the vicinity, visit Naritasan Fudoudou andย walk a few steps to this shop. A lunch set like mine will set you back for only 900 yen (~ $9), but you’ll feel so elated that you can eat a whole street of desserts, too.

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Guest blogged by C. from Katsushika, Tokyo.

Flavor Abroad: Boulevard-ing in Seoul

August 03, 2014 By: Kristen Category: Flavor Abroad: Boulevard-ing in Seoul, Korean

Dear Flavor Boulevard Readers,

It has been a LONG time since I’ve written for FB and I feel terrible! Although I suppose I am lucky just to share space here with the beautiful Mai and her equally gorgeous photography, and I can only hope that my posts contribute to the overall site. Long story short, the main reason why I have been away from the blog is because I was studying for my QEs (qualifying exams) and have been traveling in/around Seoul.

I am finally writing this short post to announce a new segment: Flavor Abroad: Boulevard-ing in Seoul. This announcement goes hand-in-hand with my upcoming move to Seoul, South Korea where I will be spending at least the next 10 months beginning in mid-August for my dissertation research. While I will hopefully explore outside of Seoul, this little space will explore the foods that I ate/have eaten while primarily traveling/living in Seoul! I was also in Seoul this summer for a little over a month, so I have quite a few posts already planned! I am also hoping that the “boulevard-ing” part of this title would also give me an opportunity to share some photographs and stories that are not 100% related to food but will perhaps reflect more generally on the theme of travel. I still will continue to post on restaurants in Berkeley and in my hometown of Connecticut/New York area since I am currently home on break but I will mostly devote my energy and writing on my adventures in Seoul and South Korea.

I am looking forward to beginning this new chapter in my life and while I miss Mai so much in Berkeley, I think that blogging across continents would bring us closer together.

See you all in South Korea!

~ Kristen

Flavor Japan – Noodles Part 2

July 24, 2014 By: Mai Truong Category: Flavor Japan, Japanese, Travel

somen-set-angle
Ramen is all hip now and if I were that into ramen, I probably would try a ramen shop everyday until I exhaust all options in Tokyo (it will take only a few lifetimes). But honestly, there’s SO MUCH MORE about noodles in Japan that I’m glad I didn’t spend all my time with ramen. I don’t regret one bit that I had only ONE bowl of ramen in Tokyo the entire stay. When I think about the spaghetti with boiled anchovy (you can also have it raw) or somen and rice with clam(*), I’m filled with joy. (I really am!)

ziggys-pasta
Ziggy’s Pasta is an unassuming shop a stone’s throw away from Koutoku-in in Kamakura – the temple with the great copper statue of Buddha, where 60% of the tourists stick their hands out for a statue-carrying pose.

Kotokuin Temple - Daibutsu
When we visited in Kamakura, my life goal was too eat shoujin ryouri (็ฒพ้€ฒๆ–™็†) – traditional Buddhist vegetarian meal, but that goal was quickly quenched because everybody and their grandma were lining up outside every restaurant during lunch time, and no shoujin ryouri restaurant was opened for dinner. So we walked along the street in dejection, and suddenly I saw Ziggy’s Pasta. If I can’t have what I want, I might as well eat the first thing I see – pasta.

ziggys-pasta-menu
This is their menu. The guy recommended the left page as their specialty: cold spaghetti in 3 different types of sauce topped with shirasu (which I didn’t understand but was in for the thrill anyway), which can be served either raw or boiled. I’m not into tomato sauce and I didn’t know what “sudachi” was (the first category), so that’s that. With “bajiru”, I just felt a chance of knowing what it meant, so I asked him what “bajiru” was. He thought and thought, and tilted his head, “bajiru desu ne…? sorewa, italy no …” (loosely mean “bajiru huh? It’s an Italian …”) and tilted his head some more. I tilted my head too, to search for an Italian thing that is green and starts with “b”. It took me a good minute. Can you guess?

ziggys-basil-pasta-shirasu
Here is spaghetti with boiled shirasu (anchovy) in bajiru sauce. Admittedly it neither sounds nor looks too heart-warming – I had never had cold pasta with fish before, much less boiled fish, but this dish confirms that the Japanese knows how to work their fish into everything. The fish is not at all fishy, just a tiny bit salty, the pasta and the sauce work together splendidly, and the coolness from the plate to the silverware to the pasta lifts you up from the afternoon summer heat like no other. I was revived.

ziggys-sudachi-pasta-shirasu
The sudachi option with raw anchovy has more zest, but I think I’m not quite there with the raw fish, they go down a little too… smooth? This dish was definitely going for theย slimy smooth theme, considering the raw egg and ikura (salmon roe). The myoga (Japanese ginger flower buds) adds a much appreciated crunch, though.

Thinking back, the evening atย Ziggy’s Pastaย was one of the more memorable meals I had in Japan. It’s worth missing out on the traditional Buddhist meal. Sure, spaghetti is much less Japanese than shoujin ryouri, butย where can you find spaghetti like this but in Japan?

Address: Kamakura Ziggy’s Pasta
็ฅžๅฅˆๅท็œŒ้ŽŒๅ€‰ๅธ‚้•ท่ฐท1-16-25
Kamakura, Japan

(To be continued)

Foodnote:
(*) Somen and rice with clam will have to wait until Noodles Part 3. Originally I intended to do them with cold spaghetti, but as I wrote on, I realized that cold spaghetti deserves it own post, and so does somen. ๐Ÿ™‚

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Guest blogged by C. from Katsushika, Tokyo.