Sunrise, Fresh Wasabi, and 7-11 Guardians: Visiting Alishan (阿里山) in Taiwan
It’s been such a long long long time since posting anything, but I’ve really wanted to get back into blogging… For some stress release, for some connection, and to practice writing. Also, with Mai’s graduation and return home, I hope that this would be a great way for us to stay connected to each other besides social media! Plus, I have a backlog of Taiwan photos that I would love to give some more backstory to — I’m not going to approach them in any particular order but will just write about the ones that most stand out to me, and hope would be interesting to share with people — so here goes!
Apparently, a must-do thing when visiting Alishan (阿里山), one of the most famous and scenic mountains in Taiwan, is to wake up extremely early and take a train to the peak-area of the mountain to see the sunrise. It surprised me that this is an almost-daily tourist event because the only time that I ever purposefully woke up extremely early to climb up a mountain and view the sunrise was on New Year’s Day in South Korea in 2015. Feeling the first rays of the sun on the first day of the year was a time for wishing and for new beginnings.
New Year’s Day on Deokdongsan (덕동산) in Pyeongtaek, South Korea. January 1st, 2015.
As for my mom and me, this time was a less momentous occasion, but still I was excited. The person who worked in our hostel mentioned that he could usually tell if the sunrise would be visible by looking up at the stars at night, and he gave the all-clear. (Staying in a hostel that is also a tea farm is definitely something I will be blogging about in the future – it made me almost want to move to the mountains!) So, after a little bit of sleep, we woke up at 3am and headed to the Forest Railway Alishan Station (阿里山車站) along with our taxi driver Mr. Fang.
According to the website, the Alishan Forest Railways was first constructed in 1906 to facilitate the logging industry during the Japanese colonial era (1895-1945). The trains were primarily used to transfer logs of the cypress and Taiwania wood trees. (Interestingly enough, a few weeks before this trip, I came across a shrine gate made of the Taiwania wood at the Meiji Jingu, a shrine in Tokyo, Japan.)
The entrance to the Meiji Jingu. According to the plaque, this is the largest torii in Japan, made of Taiwania wood.
Now, the trains are primarily used for tourism. According to a map of the entire Alishan Forest Railway, it looks like the train begins in Chiayi (嘉義) (at 30m elevation) and ascends all the way to Chushan (祝山) (at 2451m elevation).
Map at Alishan Station.
We took the train from Alishan stop (阿里山), which is marked as being at 2216m elevation. The map also points out the elevations at which the climate changes, from tropical to subtropical (at 800m) to temperate (at 1800m). I could definitely feel the change physically – it went from insanely hot and humid (coming from Hsinchu 新竹; this was mid-July) to quite chilly and cold (around 50 degrees Fahrenheit, although in the early morning before sunrise it dropped to around 40 degrees on the mountain).
Even though we arrived early (at around 4:30am~5:00am, I cannot remember the exact time), there were already trains that departed carrying passengers and the line waiting to board was also already long. (The website mentions that the first train leaves at 4:00am in summer, while during winter months, the first train departs closer to 6:00am to adjust with the time of sunrise.) I wasn’t able to sang a seat on the way up to the mountain, and I wasn’t quite able to take photos out the window since it was still too dark to see anything, but the inside of the train was quite pretty as it was decorated with pink flowers. I think it was about a 20 minute ride to the top, but I was pretty sleepy.
The line was already so long!
Waiting for the train to arrive…
…here it comes!
In lieu of scenery, pretty flowers inside the train car!
Arriving at the peak of the mountain, I was not really anticipating much visibility because the area was crowded with tourists – some traveling on their own with family members and some people in large tourist groups. For a while, while waiting for the sun to rise, I amused myself by not only admiring the gorgeous morning colors in the sky, but also the sheer amount of screens emanating from the crowd. Smartphones, cameras, video recorders, but mostly cellphones of course – it was definitely a little stressful and slightly off-putting to be in such a large crowd, but that could definitely speak to my own antisocial nature.
A sea of cellphones and selfie sticks.
Luckily, I had done some quick online research the night before and read that there was another path further up the mountain that also allowed for some visibility. Since we were with Mr. Fang, he very graciously decided to do some investigating for us and was able to find and follow the path to the slightly higher peak, which ultimately led to an out-of-use helicopter pad. There was only one small tour group at the higher peak (about 10 people I think) from Mainland China, so visibility was much better. It was a good idea to split from the increasingly larger and larger crowds at the lower observation platforms.
The small tour group leader was really funny and kept on cracking jokes while we waited for the sun to rise. He kept on telling his group that the sun would make a popping noise, that it would literally “pop” up over the distant mountain peaks. I kept on thinking of the “sunrise song” too that always accompanied the cartoon sunrises.
I can just imagine a cartoon sun popping up anytime now!
When the sun finally did rise (unfortunately no sudden popping or sound effects), it was definitely beautiful and I would say that it was worth waking up early for. That the location we were in was relatively quiet and way less crowded definitely made the experience way more pleasant, and with the sunrise also meant warmer temperatures (I was pretty much frozen at this point). Since I imagine each sunrise to be unique, despite the tourist traffic, I would actually want to return again and re-experience the sunrise. Maybe next time we would have more time to do a little bit of hiking or exploration on the trails around he mountain and to check out the other stops on the train.
Since the trains to the peak only run for the sunrise, the last train scheduled to leave the peak was at 6:45am, which left us a little bit of time to grab some quick snacks before leaving. Turns out there is nothing more satisfying than a warm can of soy milk after waiting in the cold for so long (on an empty stomach).
Sunrise view from the lower viewing area.
Souvenir and snack shops.
Warm soy milk~
I also experienced another unique food experience at the peak. There was a stall selling fresh wasabi root among other wasabi products.
Array of fresh wasabi and other wasabi-related products.
While I had known that Alishan was famous for producing tea, I had no idea that wasabi was another one of the famous products harvested here (here is a typical tourist website listing some of the “Alishan specials”). All I really know about wasabi is that the green gloop served with sushi in the U.S. is not real wasabi but a mixture of mustard paste and horseradish that is dyed green. I also know that I really hate “wasabi” because I cannot handle sinus-clearing spicy flavors very well. I was a little hesitant about what fresh wasabi would taste like, but of course I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to try it, especially if the auntie working at the stall was going to give us a small sample of the freshly grated root.
Freshly grated wasabi root.
After cleaning the root, she grated a generous amount onto my hand. I loved how beautiful the color looked – it wasn’t bright green like the wasabi that I’ve had before, but the look of the texture and color on my hand was almost like the inside of a falafel. Upon tasting, however, the texture was completely different from a falafel – a little crunchy and crumbling before dissolving. The horseradish/sinus-spicy taste was so subtle, just arriving a little bit at the end. The first taste was that of almost grassy freshness. There is no way I would ever eat this much wasabi in the U.S., but the generous grating was just enough to get a strong taste of the much more subtle flavor of the fresh wasabi. There was still a strong kick after eating the entire amount on my hand, but the freshness also meant that it wasn’t just sinus-clearing spicy, but that there were other layers of flavor as well. While I wouldn’t go out of my way to find fresh wasabi now that I have tried it (or pay top dollar for it), I can definitely say for sure that I did enjoy it and would be interested to see how this would taste on sushi and raw fish, or paired with other foods.
I wasn’t left wondering for too long – turns out the woman in the next stall (who is the wasabi stall owner’s daughter) was selling mountain pig sausages, which supposedly pairs perfectly well with fresh wasabi. As it was almost time to board the train at this point, we bought the sausages and the woman at the wasabi stand loaded a generous shaving of fresh wasabi on our sausages as well. While on the train ride back down the mountain, I ate the sausage.
Mountain pig sausage with freshly grated wasabi.
I honestly cannot really differentiate between regular pork sausage and mountain pig sausage, so the sausage tasted to like typical Taiwanese sausage – meaty, almost a little dry wth a slight jerky quality, sweet, and savory with a bit of char. The wasabi added a little bit of extra spice to the sausage and was a perfect complement – I ended up getting quite a bit of wasabi in one of my bites and felt the nasal burn, but it wasn’t overwhelming. The grassy notes of the freshly grated wasabi complemented the meaty sausage perfectly. (I wonder if wild pigs eat wasabi too?) This was definitely the perfect snack and it was enjoyable watching the forest and sunrise while taking the train back to Alishan Station and snacking too.
I’ll leave the post with some images of the scenery in the daytime, as well as the walking trail, which I hope to try next time.
Map of different walking trails and ways to ascend the mountain.
View of the train platform.
View from the station.
View of the station.
Before heading back to our hostel for a quick nap, we stopped by the 7-11 in the train station, which is itself housed in an interesting traditional-style building, for some quick snacks and drinks.
7-11 housed in an interesting looking building. The characters read “Alishan Station.”
There was a very pretty dog at the entrance, who looked like it was doing quite a diligent job of “guarding” the entrance. I wished it the best of luck before we headed back out and onto our next adventure.
The guardian animal of the convenience store?
I’ve read a few excellent stuff here. Certainly price bookmarking for revisiting. I surprise how so much effort you place to create this kind of fantastic informative web site.
1With havin so much written content do you ever run into any problems of plagorism or copyright violation? My blog has a lot of unique content I’ve either authored myself or outsourced but it looks like a lot of it is popping it up all over the internet without my permission. Do you know any techniques to help prevent content from being stolen? I’d genuinely appreciate it.
2I like this web blog very much so much fantastic info .
3Hi there! Do you know if they make any plugins to help with Search Engine Optimization? I’m trying to get my blog to rank for some targeted keywords but I’m not seeing very good gains. If you know of any please share. Kudos!
4Some really wondrous work on behalf of the owner of this internet site, perfectly great articles.
5I needed to send you a little bit of observation in order to thank you very much the moment again considering the fantastic information you’ve featured here. This is simply tremendously open-handed with you to provide extensively precisely what a number of us would’ve advertised as an e-book to help with making some profit on their own, certainly considering that you could possibly have tried it in case you desired. The tricks as well served like the great way to be sure that other people online have a similar desire like my personal own to find out great deal more around this issue. I’m certain there are numerous more pleasant periods up front for people who examine your blog.
6I’d have to examine with you here. Which is not one thing I usually do! I take pleasure in reading a post that may make folks think. Additionally, thanks for permitting me to comment!
7https://shorturl.fm/lWHHF
8https://shorturl.fm/QBXAC
9Useful info. Lucky me I found your site accidentally, and I’m surprised why this twist of fate did not happened earlier! I bookmarked it.
10Hiya! I just wish to give an enormous thumbs up for the great data you will have right here on this post. I might be coming again to your blog for extra soon.
11https://shorturl.fm/MkNCA
12I’m impressed, I have to say. Actually rarely do I encounter a blog that’s both educative and entertaining, and let me let you know, you may have hit the nail on the head. Your idea is excellent; the problem is something that not sufficient people are speaking intelligently about. I am very pleased that I stumbled across this in my search for something regarding this.
13Your place is valueble for me. Thanks!…
14I cherished as much as you will receive carried out proper here. The comic strip is tasteful, your authored material stylish. nevertheless, you command get got an edginess over that you wish be turning in the following. sick no doubt come further until now again since exactly the similar just about very incessantly within case you protect this hike.
15I do not even know how I ended up right here, however I assumed this submit was good. I do not know who you might be but certainly you are going to a well-known blogger when you are not already 😉 Cheers!
16I think this is one of the most significant information for me. And i am glad reading your article. But want to remark on some general things, The web site style is wonderful, the articles is really great :D. Good job, cheers
17I am typically to blogging and i really recognize your content. The article has really peaks my interest. I’m going to bookmark your site and hold checking for brand new information.
18I’ll right away grab your rss as I can not find your email subscription hyperlink or e-newsletter service. Do you have any? Kindly allow me realize in order that I may just subscribe. Thanks.
19Throughout the grand scheme of things you’ll secure a B- just for effort. Exactly where you actually misplaced me personally ended up being in your facts. As people say, details make or break the argument.. And that couldn’t be much more correct right here. Having said that, allow me reveal to you just what exactly did give good results. The writing can be very engaging and that is possibly why I am taking the effort in order to comment. I do not really make it a regular habit of doing that. Next, whilst I can notice a leaps in reason you come up with, I am not necessarily confident of how you appear to unite your details which in turn produce the actual conclusion. For right now I will yield to your point however hope in the foreseeable future you connect your dots much better.
20Great wordpress blog here.. It’s hard to find quality writing like yours these days. I really appreciate people like you! take care
21Attractive section of content. I just stumbled upon your site and in accession capital to assert that I get in fact enjoyed account your blog posts. Any way I’ll be subscribing to your feeds and even I achievement you access consistently fast.
22A lot of thanks for every one of your effort on this blog. My mum enjoys conducting research and it is simple to grasp why. We all hear all about the dynamic manner you provide very helpful secrets via your web blog and as well boost response from other individuals on this concern while our favorite child is really studying a great deal. Have fun with the rest of the year. You’re the one performing a superb job.
23Very interesting subject, appreciate it for posting.
24very good publish, i definitely love this website, carry on it
25For travelers seeking convenient car rentals at Westchester County Airport check out this guide hpn car rental companies. Numerous national brands alongside local agencies operate around the airport presenting travelers with multiple vehicle categories and competitive rates.
26What’s Happening i am new to this, I stumbled upon this I’ve found It positively helpful and it has aided me out loads. I hope to contribute & assist other users like its aided me. Good job.
27It’s in reality a great and helpful piece of information. I am glad that you simply shared this helpful info with us. Please stay us up to date like this. Thank you for sharing.
28I’m extremely impressed with your writing skills and also with the layout on your blog. Is this a paid theme or did you customize it yourself? Anyway keep up the nice quality writing, it’s rare to see a great blog like this one today..
29It’s really a great and useful piece of information. I’m glad that you shared this useful info with us. Please keep us up to date like this. Thanks for sharing.
30After study a few of the blog posts on your website now, and I truly like your way of blogging. I bookmarked it to my bookmark website list and will be checking back soon. Pls check out my web site as well and let me know what you think.
31What’s Going down i’m new to this, I stumbled upon this I have found It absolutely helpful and it has aided me out loads. I hope to contribute & aid different users like its aided me. Great job.
32Fantastic web site. Lots of helpful info here. I’m sending it to several friends ans also sharing in delicious. And of course, thank you to your effort!
33I precisely needed to say thanks once again. I do not know the things that I might have done without the type of aspects documented by you regarding such a problem. Completely was a intimidating case in my position, however , seeing the expert technique you dealt with the issue took me to weep with gladness. I am just grateful for this guidance and then trust you realize what a great job you are always carrying out teaching people using your webblog. I am sure you’ve never come across all of us.
34What i do not realize is in reality how you’re not really a lot more neatly-appreciated than you might be now. You’re very intelligent. You already know therefore considerably in the case of this subject, made me individually consider it from so many various angles. Its like women and men are not fascinated until it is one thing to do with Girl gaga! Your individual stuffs nice. Always deal with it up!
35Hmm is anyone else experiencing problems with the pictures on this blog loading? I’m trying to determine if its a problem on my end or if it’s the blog. Any responses would be greatly appreciated.
36I just could not leave your website before suggesting that I extremely loved the standard information a person provide on your visitors? Is going to be back steadily in order to investigate cross-check new posts
37I simply desired to thank you very much yet again. I’m not certain what I could possibly have tried without the type of smart ideas revealed by you directly on that question. This has been a real challenging problem in my circumstances, however , finding out your skilled fashion you dealt with it made me to weep for contentment. Now i am happier for the support and wish you find out what an amazing job you’re getting into educating people today through the use of a blog. I am certain you’ve never met all of us.
38you’re actually a just right webmaster. The site loading speed is incredible. It kind of feels that you’re doing any distinctive trick. Furthermore, The contents are masterpiece. you have performed a great job on this subject!
39Thankyou for this wonderful post, I am glad I observed this website on yahoo.
40You are my aspiration, I have few blogs and often run out from to brand.
41I loved as much as you’ll receive carried out right here. The sketch is attractive, your authored subject matter stylish. nonetheless, you command get got an impatience over that you wish be delivering the following. unwell unquestionably come further formerly again as exactly the same nearly a lot often inside case you shield this hike.
42I’ve learn a few excellent stuff here. Definitely worth bookmarking for revisiting. I wonder how much effort you put to make this kind of excellent informative site.
43https://shorturl.fm/bscUx
44An impressive share, I just given this onto a colleague who was doing a little analysis on this. And he in fact bought me breakfast because I found it for him.. smile. So let me reword that: Thnx for the treat! But yeah Thnkx for spending the time to discuss this, I feel strongly about it and love reading more on this topic. If possible, as you become expertise, would you mind updating your blog with more details? It is highly helpful for me. Big thumb up for this blog post!
45Write more, thats all I have to say. Literally, it seems as though you relied on the video to make your point. You definitely know what youre talking about, why throw away your intelligence on just posting videos to your weblog when you could be giving us something enlightening to read?
46You have brought up a very great details , appreciate it for the post.
47so much excellent info on here, :D.
48Some genuinely superb information, Sword lily I noticed this. “The distance between insanity and genius is measured only by success.” by James Bond Tomorrow Never Dies.
49Definitely, what a fantastic blog and enlightening posts, I will bookmark your site.Have an awsome day!
50