Flavor Boulevard

Clockwise from top left: “Oregon finger food”, smoked trout salad, fava bean cannelloni, Liberty Ranch duck. Image courtesy of Nancy Togami.

Hi! I’m Nancy, one of Mai’s intrepid partners in food and tea adventures. I’m guest blogging about a wine dinner that I enjoyed not too long ago…

Baywolf on Piedmont Avenue is well known in the Bay Area for its duck dinners (Nov 2012). An opportunity arose last month to indulge in the duck again, along with some mighty fine Oregon wine. Of course, this is where Mai and I part ways, as I usually enjoy a glass or two of fine wine with a special meal. We agree to disagree 😉 A treat for the evening included appearances from Dick Ponzi from his eponymous winery and Harry Peterson-Nedry of Chehalem Wines.

I called to reserve a spot and was asked if I’d be willing to sit at a ‘community’ or shared table. Of course I would! All my prior experiences with wine dinners have included the convivial memories of shared passions of food and wine with new friends…the more, the merrier! But when I arrived at Baywolf, I found that dinner times were staggered for different parties, even at the same table… bummer! It looked like I would be dining alone after all. As I was finishing my amuse-bouche, Joanne T. was seated opposite me. We hit it off immediately and I gladly waited for her to be served, to be in sync with her courses while I sipped a nice Chehalem sparkling wine. After another 15 minutes, a party of 4 joined us at our table.

Two wines (a dry Riesling and a rosé) accompanied the amuse-bouche plate, which consisted of duck pâté crostini with gherkin slices, prosciutto rolls with arugula, and red radicchio “boats” filled with a creamy goat cheese and nectarine slices. The bitter herbal elements played well opposite the Riesling, bringing out its spicy fruit, and the rosé brought out a nice sweetness in the pâté, prosciutto, and nectarine.

The salad course was paired with a Pinot Gris from each vintner. Arugula made another appearance to give the salad an herbal pungency that underlined the savory meatiness of the smoked trout and the crunch of the hazelnuts. When the pasta course arrived (a fava bean and ricotta-filled cannelloni), it looked so much like the salad that it was slightly confusing. Arugula showed up yet again, this time as a garnish. I think I would have gone with a more typical chiffonade of basil, both for the color and herbal variety. Having said that, the dish was lovely, especially when accompanied by Chardonnays from both wineries. The ricotta filling in the house-made sheet of pasta was creamy and sweet from the fava bean and green garlic. Young cepe mushroom slices added an earthy texture and taste to the dish.

Finally, two Pinot Noirs appeared (the Oregon wineries of Willamette Valley have built their reputations on the Burgundian style of Pinots.) These accompanied a terrific plate of Liberty Ranch duck breast and leg, both nicely done, over a sweet creamed corn and polenta mixture. Berries and a pinot noir sauce provided a counterpoint to the rich bitterness of grilled white radicchio which served as a garnish… notice a theme, here ? 😉

A sweet Zinfandel rosé from Sineann Winery accompanied Point Reyes blue cheese and plump Bing cherries, and a sweet dessert wine from Elk Cove Vineyards arrived with buttery short bread cookies.

The classic duck dinners at Baywolf have some element of duck in every dish. Here, the meal was full of other flavors suited to the Burgundian white wines served and allowed the duck to shine on its own at its most pristine and simple. I have to say, I was hoping for more Pinot Noirs and would have been interested in their pairing with the cannelloni. However, I found myself truly satisfied at the end of the meal with both the progression of courses and the depth of the wine varietes from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. And, of course, the high spirits of the table companions made everything seem even tastier. It was a lovely night!

— Guest blogged by Nancy Togami, undoubtedly one of Berkeley’s most avid and knowledgeable aficionados of the finer things —